WO2007048473A1 - Procedes de coloration et/ou d'eclaircissement des cheveux presentant une efficacite amelioree grace a la lumiere ultraviolette - Google Patents

Procedes de coloration et/ou d'eclaircissement des cheveux presentant une efficacite amelioree grace a la lumiere ultraviolette Download PDF

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WO2007048473A1
WO2007048473A1 PCT/EP2006/009125 EP2006009125W WO2007048473A1 WO 2007048473 A1 WO2007048473 A1 WO 2007048473A1 EP 2006009125 W EP2006009125 W EP 2006009125W WO 2007048473 A1 WO2007048473 A1 WO 2007048473A1
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red
acid
amino
hair
basic
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PCT/EP2006/009125
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German (de)
English (en)
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Kai Böge
Hans Dolhaine
Helmut Hoepfl
Astrid Kleen
Mustafa Akram
Wolfgang Wolff
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Henkel Kommanditgesellschaft Auf Aktien
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Publication of WO2007048473A1 publication Critical patent/WO2007048473A1/fr

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34—Alcohols
    • A61K8/347—Phenols
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/41—Amines
    • A61K8/411—Aromatic amines, i.e. where the amino group is directly linked to the aromatic nucleus
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/41—Amines
    • A61K8/415—Aminophenols
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/49—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
    • A61K8/4906—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with one nitrogen as the only hetero atom
    • A61K8/4913—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with one nitrogen as the only hetero atom having five membered rings, e.g. pyrrolidone carboxylic acid
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/49—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
    • A61K8/4906—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with one nitrogen as the only hetero atom
    • A61K8/4926—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with one nitrogen as the only hetero atom having six membered rings
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/06—Preparations for styling the hair, e.g. by temporary shaping or colouring
    • A61Q5/065—Preparations for temporary colouring the hair, e.g. direct dyes
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/08—Preparations for bleaching the hair
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/10—Preparations for permanently dyeing the hair
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/80—Process related aspects concerning the preparation of the cosmetic composition or the storage or application thereof
    • A61K2800/81—Preparation or application process involves irradiation

Definitions

  • human hair is today treated in a variety of ways with hair cosmetic preparations. These include, for example, the cleansing of hair with shampoos, the care and regeneration with rinses and cures and the bleaching, dyeing and shaping of the hair with dyes, tinting agents, waving agents and styling preparations. In this case, means for changing or nuancing the color of the head hair play a prominent role.
  • the bleaching agents that cause an oxidative lightening of the hair by degradation of the natural hair dyes, so in the field of hair coloring essentially three types of hair dye are of importance:
  • oxidation colorants For permanent, intensive colorations with corresponding fastness properties, so-called oxidation colorants are used. Such colorants usually contain oxidation dye precursors, so-called developer components and coupler components.
  • the developer components form the actual dyes under the influence of oxidizing agents or of atmospheric oxygen with one another or with coupling with one or more coupler components.
  • the oxidation stains are characterized by excellent, long lasting staining results. For naturally acting dyeings but usually a mixture of a larger number of oxidation dye precursors must be used; In many cases, direct dyes are still used for shading.
  • dyeing or tinting agents which contain so-called direct drawers as a coloring component.
  • These dyes include, for example, the henna already known from antiquity for coloring body and hair. These dyeings are generally much more sensitive to shampooing than the oxidative dyeings, so that a much more undesirable nuance shift or even a visible "discoloration" occurs much more quickly.
  • precursors of the natural hair dye melanin are applied to the hair; These then form naturally-analogous dyes in the course of oxidative processes in the hair.
  • 5,6-dihydroxyindoline is used as the dye precursor.
  • multiple use of agents with 5,6-dihydroxyindoline it is possible to reproduce natural hair color to people with graying hair.
  • the dyeing can be done with atmospheric oxygen as the sole oxidant, so that no further oxidizing agent must be used.
  • the indoline can be used as the sole dye precursor.
  • satisfactory results can often only be achieved for use in persons with originally red and, in particular, dark to black hair color, by using other dye components, in particular special oxidation dye precursors.
  • the actual colorant is usually prepared immediately prior to use by mixing the preparation of the oxidizing agent with the preparation containing the dye precursors.
  • the oxidants used are predominantly aqueous hydrogen peroxide solutions.
  • a problem lies in the exposure time of the funds, which should be as short as possible in order to prevent possible irritation and to make the application less time-consuming.
  • the dyeing result should not be affected by the shortened exposure time.
  • dyeing effects should be intensified and / or departments thereof. Exposure times are shortened.
  • a first aspect of the present invention is a method for treating keratinous fibers, in particular human hair, in which a hair dyeing and / or whitening agent is applied to the hair and the treated hair is applied for 1 to 60 minutes following the application of the composition is irradiated with UV radiation in the wavelength range 200 to 600 nm.
  • UV radiation ultraviolet radiation
  • UV radiation are electromagnetic waves of the wavelength of about 380 to 10 nm or a frequency of about 790 THz to 30 PHz.
  • the energy of a single light quantum is in the range of about 3.3 eV (380 nm) to about 124 eV (10 nm).
  • UV radiation is not visible. However, it belongs to the group of optical wavelengths, which is why often the misleading term "UV light" is encountered. Like the light of other wavelengths or infrared radiation, UV radiation can be refracted, reflected, transmitted, absorbed and diffracted.
  • ultraviolet radiation By fluorescence, ultraviolet radiation can be indirectly made visible.
  • ionizing radiation below about 200 nm is therefore called ionizing radiation.
  • a hair treatment agent is applied to the hair to be treated and then irradiated with UV light. Because the head of the person being treated is exposed to UV light, the usual precautions for handling ultraviolet radiation should be observed. In particular, too long a period of irradiation should be avoided.
  • UV radiation with wavelengths above 350 nm, for example those with wavelengths of 365 nm, those with wavelengths of 370-375 nm, those with wavelengths of 380-385 nm, those with wavelengths of 390-395 nm or such with a wavelength of 400 nm.
  • the hair applied to the hair before irradiation can be rinsed out of the hair.
  • Preferred methods according to the invention are characterized in that the means for dyeing and / or brightening hair after the irradiation is rinsed out of the hair.
  • a means for dyeing and / or whitening hair is used.
  • Coupler and developer components are also referred to as oxidation dye precursors.
  • the developer components are usually primary aromatic amines with a further, located in the para or ortho position free or substituted hydroxy or amino group, diaminopyridine derivatives, heterocyclic hydrazones, 4-aminopyrazolone and 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine and its derivatives used.
  • m-phenylenediamine derivatives naphthols, resorcinol and resorcinol derivatives, pyrazolones, m-aminophenols and substituted pyridine derivatives are generally used.
  • Suitable coupler substances are in particular ⁇ -naphthol, 1, 5, 2,7- and 1, 7-dihydroxynaphthalene, 5-amino-2-methylphenol, m-aminophenol, resorcinol, resorcinol monomethyl ether, m-phenylenediamine, 2,4 -Diaminophenoxyethanol, 2-amino-4- (2-hydroxyethylamino) -anisole (Lehmann's Blue), 1-phenyl-3-methyl-pyrazol-5-one, 2,4-dichloro-3-aminophenol, 1, 3-bis - (2,4-diaminophenoxy) -propane, 2-chlororesorcinol, 4-chlororesorcinol, 2-chloro-6-methyl-3-aminophenol, 2-methylresorcinol, 5-methylresorcinol, 3-amino-6-methoxy-2-methylamino pyridine and 3,5-diamino-2,6-dimethoxypyridine
  • dyeing or tinting agents which contain so-called direct drawers as a coloring component.
  • these dyes include those from ancient times Henna known for coloring body and hair. These dyeings are generally much more sensitive to shampooing than the oxidative dyeings, so that a much more undesirable nuance shift or even a visible "discoloration" occurs much more quickly.
  • dyeing or tinting agents which contain so-called direct drawers as a coloring component. These are dye molecules that grow directly on the hair and do not require an oxidative process to form the color. These dyes include, for example, the henna already known from antiquity for coloring body and hair. These dyeings are generally much more sensitive to shampooing than the oxidative dyeings, so that a much more undesirable nuance shift or even a visible "discoloration" occurs much more quickly.
  • a compounds containing a reactive carbonyl group with component B Compounds selected from (a) CH-acidic compounds, (b) compounds having primary or secondary amino group or hydroxy group selected from primary or secondary aromatic amines, nitrogen-containing heterocyclic compounds and aromatic hydroxy compounds, (c) amino acids, (d) from 2 contain up to 9 amino acids constructed oligopeptides.
  • the corresponding dyeing method is referred to below as oxo dyeing.
  • the resulting dyeings have partially color fastness on the keratin-containing fiber, which are comparable to those of the oxidation dyeing.
  • the Nuancenspektrum achievable with the gentle oxo staining is very broad and the color obtained often has an acceptable brilliance and color depth.
  • the aforementioned components A and B are generally not themselves dyes, and are therefore each alone not suitable for coloring keratin-containing fibers. In combination, they form dyes in a non-oxidative process. However, it is also possible to use corresponding developer and / or coupler-type oxidation dye precursors with or without the use of an oxidizing agent under compounds of component B. Thus, the oxo staining method can be readily combined with the oxidative staining system.
  • Agents preferred according to the invention contain at least one developer type oxidation dye precursor and / or optionally at least one coupler type oxidation dye precursor.
  • the present invention is not subject to any restrictions.
  • the colorants according to the invention can be used as further dye precursors
  • Precursors of natural analog dyes such as indole and indoline derivatives, and mixtures of representatives of these groups.
  • the agent for dyeing and / or whitening hair is formulated as an oxidation hair dye, based on its weight of 0.01 to 15 wt.%, Preferably 0.05 to 10 wt.%, Particularly preferably 0, 1 to 7.5 wt .-% and in particular 0.2 to 5 wt .-% of one or more oxidation dye precursor (s), are preferred.
  • the colorant contains at least one developer component.
  • the developer components are usually primary aromatic amines having a further, in the para or ortho position, free or substituted hydroxy or amino group, diaminopyridine derivatives, heterocyclic hydrazones, 4-amino pyrazole derivatives and 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine and its Derivatives used.
  • p-phenylenediamine derivatives of the formula (E1) it may be preferred according to the invention to use as the developer component a p-phenylenediamine derivative or one of its physiologically acceptable salts. Particular preference is given to p-phenylenediamine derivatives of the formula (E1)
  • G 1 represents a hydrogen atom, a C 1 - to C 4 alkyl, C 1 - to C 4 - monohydroxyalkyl radical, a C 2 - to C 4 polyhydroxyalkyl radical, a (C 1 - to C 4 J-AIkOXy- ( C 1 to C 4 ) alkyl, a 4'-aminophenyl or C 1 to C 4 alkyl substituted with a nitrogen-containing group, a phenyl or a 4'-aminophenyl;
  • G 2 is a hydrogen atom , C r to C 4 alkyl, C 1 - to C 4 - monohydroxyalkyl radical, a C 2 - to C 4 polyhydroxyalkyl radical, a (C 1 - to C 4 J-AIkOXy- (C 1 - to C 4) alkyl radical or a C 1 to C 4 alkyl radical which is substituted by a nitrogen-containing group;
  • G 3 represents a hydrogen atom, a halogen atom such as a chlorine, bromine, iodine or fluorine atom, a C 1 - to C 4 -alkyl radical, a C 1 - to C 4 -monohydroxyalkyl radical, a C 2 - to C 4 - Polyhydroxyalkylrest, a C 1 - to C 4 -hydroxyalkoxy, a C 1 - to C 4 - acetylaminoalkoxy, a C 1 - to C 4 - Mesylaminoalkoxyrest or a C 1 - to C 4 - carbamoylaminoalkoxy;
  • a halogen atom such as a chlorine, bromine, iodine or fluorine atom
  • a C 1 - to C 4 -alkyl radical such as a chlorine, bromine, iodine or fluorine atom
  • a C 1 - to C 4 -alkyl radical
  • G 4 represents a hydrogen atom, a halogen atom or a C 1 - to C 4 -alkyl radical or when G 3 and G 4 are ortho to each other, they may together form a bridging ⁇ , ⁇ -alkylenedioxy group, such as, for example, an ethylenedioxy group.
  • Examples of the C 1 - to C 4 -alkyl radicals mentioned as substituents in the compounds according to the invention are the groups methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl and butyl. Ethyl and methyl are preferred alkyl radicals.
  • C 1 -C 4 -alkoxy radicals preferred according to the invention are, for example, a methoxy or an ethoxy group.
  • a C 1 - to C 4 hydroxyalkyl group is called a hydroxymethyl, a 2-hydroxyethyl, a 3-hydroxypropyl or a 4-hydroxybutyl group. A 2-hydroxyethyl group is particularly preferred.
  • a particularly preferred C 2 to C 4 polyhydroxyalkyl group is the 1, 2-dihydroxyethyl group.
  • halogen atoms are according to the invention F, Cl or Br atoms, Cl atoms are very particularly preferred.
  • the other terms used are derived according to the invention from the definitions given here.
  • nitrogen-containing groups of the formula (E1) are in particular the amino groups, C 1 to C 4 monoalkylamino groups, C 1 to C 4 dialkylamino groups, C 1 to C 4 trialkylammonium groups, C 1 to C 4 monohydroxyalkylamino groups, Imidazolinium and ammonium.
  • Particularly preferred p-phenylenediamines of the formula (E1) are selected from p-phenylenediamine, p-toluenediamine, 2-chloro-p-phenylenediamine, 2,3-dimethyl-p-phenylenediamine, 2,6-dimethyl-p-phenylenediamine, 2 , 6-diethyl-p-phenylenediamine, 2,5-dimethyl-p-phenylenediamine, N, N-dimethyl-p-phenylenediamine, N, N-diethyl-p-phenylenediamine, N, N-dipropyl-p-phenylenediamine, 4-amino-3-methyl- (N, N-diethyl) -aniline, N, N-bis- ( ⁇ -hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, 4-N, N-bis ( ⁇ -hydroxyethyl) amino-2 methylaniline, 4-N, N-bis (
  • Very particular preferred p-phenylenediamine derivatives of the formula (E1) according to the invention are p-phenylenediamine, p-toluenediamine, 2- ( ⁇ -hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, 2- ( ⁇ , ⁇ -dihydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine and N, N bis (.beta.-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine.
  • developer component compounds which contain at least two aromatic nuclei which are substituted by amino and / or hydroxyl groups.
  • binuclear developer components which can be used in the colorants according to the invention, mention may be made in particular of the compounds which correspond to the following formula (E2) and their physiologically tolerated salts: in which:
  • Z 1 and Z 2 independently of one another represent a hydroxyl or NH 2 radical which is optionally substituted by a C 1 - to C 4 -alkyl radical, by a C 1 - to C 4 -hydroxyalkyl radical and / or by a bridge Y.
  • the bridge Y is an alkylene group having 1 to 14 carbon atoms, such as a linear or branched alkylene chain or an alkylene ring, which is one or more nitrogen-containing groups and / or one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen , Sulfur or nitrogen atoms may be interrupted or terminated and may possibly be substituted by one or more hydroxyl or C 1 - to C 8 -alkoxy radicals, or a direct bond,
  • G 5 and G 6 independently of one another represent a hydrogen or halogen atom, a C 1 - to C 4 -alkyl radical, a C 1 - to C 4 -monohydroxyalkyl radical, a C 2 - to C 4 -hydroxyalkyl radical, a C 1 - to C 4 -Am inoalkylrest or a direct connection to the bridge Y,
  • G 7 , G 8 , G 9 , G 10 , G 11 and G 12 independently represent a hydrogen atom, a direct bond to the bridge Y or a C 1 - to C 4 -alkyl radical, with the provisos that the compounds of the formula (E2) contain only one bridging Y per molecule and the compounds of the formula (E2) contain at least one amino group which carries at least one hydrogen atom.
  • Preferred binuclear developer components of the formula (E2) are in particular: N, N'-bis ( ⁇ -hydroxyethyl) -N, N'-bis (4'-aminophenyl) -1,3-diamino-propan-2-ol, N, N'-bis ( ⁇ -hydroxyethyl) -N, N'-bis (4'-aminophenyl) ethylenediamine, N, N'-bis (4-aminophenyl) tetramethylenediamine, N, N'-bis N, N'-bis (4-aminophenyl) tetramethylenediamine, N, N'-bis (4-methylaminophenyl) tetramethylenediamine, N, N'-diethyl-N, N ' bis (4'-amino-3'-methylphenyl) ethylenediamine, bis (2-hydroxy-5-aminophenyl) -methane, 1, 3-bis (2,5-diaminoph
  • Very particularly preferred binuclear developer components of the formula (E2) are N, N'-bis ( ⁇ -hydroxyethyl) -N, N'-bis (4'-aminophenyl) -1,3-diamino-propan-2-ol, Bis (2-hydroxy-5-aminophenyl) methane, 1, 3-bis (2,5-diaminophenoxy) -propan-2-ol, N, N'-bis (4'-aminophenyl) -1, 4-diazacycloheptane and 1, 10-bis (2 ', 5'-diaminophenyl) -1, 4,7,10-tetraoxadecan or one of its physiologically acceptable salts.
  • p-aminophenol derivatives of the formula (E3) it may be preferred according to the invention to use as the developer component a p-aminophenol derivative or one of its physiologically tolerable salts. Particular preference is given to p-aminophenol derivatives of the formula (E3)
  • G 13 represents a hydrogen atom, a halogen atom, a C 1 - to C 4 -alkyl radical, a C 1 - to C 4 -monohydroxyalkyl radical, a C 2 - to C 4 -polyhydroxyalkyl radical, a (C 1 - to C 4 ) - Alkoxy (C r to C 4 ) alkyl, a C 1 - to C 4 -Aminoalkylrest, a hydroxy ⁇ Cr to C 4 ) -alkylamino, a C 1 - to C 4 -hydroxyalkoxy, a C 1 - to C ⁇ HydroxyalkyKd to C 4 ) -aminoalkylrest or a (di-C 1 - to C ⁇ alkylaminoHCr to C 4 ) alkyl radical, and
  • G 14 represents a hydrogen or halogen atom, a C 1 - to C 4 alkyl, C 1 - to C 4 - monohydroxyalkyl radical, a C 2 - to C 4 polyhydroxyalkyl radical, a (C 1 - to C 4) - Alkoxy (C r to C 4 ) -alkyl radical, a C 1 - to C 4 -aminoalkyl radical or a C 1 - to C 4 -cyanoalkyl radical,
  • G 15 is hydrogen, C 1 - to C 4 -alkyl, C 1 - to C 4 -monohydroxyalkyl, C 2 - to C 4 -polyhydroxyalkyl, phenyl or benzyl, and
  • G 16 is hydrogen or a halogen atom.
  • Preferred p-aminophenols of the formula (E3) are, in particular, p-aminophenol, N-methyl-p-aminophenol, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 4-amino-3-fluorophenol, 2-hydroxymethylamino-4-aminophenol, 4 -Amino-3-hydroxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2- (D-hydroxyethoxy) -phenol, 4-amino-2- methylphenol, 4-amino-2-hydroxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-methoxymethyl-phenol, 4-amino-2-aminomethylphenol, 4-amino-2- ( ⁇ -hydroxyethyl-aminomethyl) -phenol, 4-amino-2- ( ⁇ , ß-dihydroxyethyl) phenol, 4-amino-2-fluorophenol, 4-amino-2-chlorophenol, 4-amino-2,6-dichlorophenol, 4-amino-2- (diethyl-aminomethyl) phenol and their physiologically
  • Very particularly preferred compounds of the formula (E3) are p-aminophenol, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 4-amino-2-aminomethylphenol, 4-amino-2- ( ⁇ , ⁇ -dihydroxyethyl) -phenol and A-amino- 2- (diethylaminomethyl) -phenol.
  • the developer component may be selected from o-aminophenol and its derivatives such as 2-amino-4-methylphenol, 2-amino-5-methylphenol or 2-amino-4-chlorophenol.
  • the developer component may be selected from heterocyclic developer components, such as the pyridine, pyrimidine, pyrazole, pyrazole pyrimidine derivatives and their physiologically acceptable salts.
  • Preferred pyridine derivatives are in particular the compounds 2,5-diamino-pyridine, 2- (4'-methoxyphenyl) amino-3-amino-pyridine, 2,3-diamino-6-methoxypyridine, 2- ( ⁇ -methoxyethyl ) amino-3-amino-6-methoxypyridine and 3,4-diamino-pyridine.
  • Preferred pyrimidine derivatives are in particular 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine, 4-hydroxy-2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxy-4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2-dimethylamino-4,5,6- triaminopyrimidine, 2,4-dihydroxy-5,6-diaminopyrimidine and 2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine.
  • Preferred pyrazole derivatives are in particular 4,5-diamino-1-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1- ( ⁇ -hydroxyethyl) pyrazole, 3,4-diaminopyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1- (4'- chlorobenzyl) pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1,3-dimethylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-methyl-1-phenylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-methyl-3-phenylpyrazole, 4-amino-1 , 3-dimethyl-5-hydrazinopyrazole, 1-benzyl-4,5-diamino-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-tert-butyl-1-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-tert.
  • Triaminopyrazole 1-methyl-3,4,5-triaminopyrazole, 3,5-diamino-1-methyl-4-methylaminopyrazole and 3,5-diamino-4- ( ⁇ -hydroxyethyl) amino-1-methylpyrazole.
  • Preferred pyrazole-pyrimidine derivatives are, in particular, the derivatives of the pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidine of the following formula (E4) and their tautomeric forms, if a tautomeric equilibrium exists: in which
  • G 17 , G 18 , G 19 and G 20 independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom, a C 1 - to C 4 -alkyl radical, an aryl radical, a C 1 - to C 4 -hydroxyalkyl radical, a C 2 - to C 4 - Polyhydroxyalkylrest a (C 1 - to C 4 J-AIkOXy- (C 1 - to C 4 ) -alkyl radical, a C 1 - to C 4 - aminoalkyl, which may be protected by an acetyl-ureide or a sulfonyl radical can, a (C 1 - to C 4) -Alkylam ino- (C 1 - to C 4) alkyl, a D ⁇ - [(C r to C 4) alkyl] - (C 1 - to C 4) - am ⁇ noalkylrest, wherein the dialkyl radicals optionally form a carbon cycle or a heterocycle with
  • Group OH occupy positions (2,3), (5,6), (6,7), (3,5) or (3,7),
  • the pyrazolo [1, 5-a] -pyrimidines of the above formula (E4) can be prepared as described in the literature by cyclization from an aminopyrazole or from hydrazine.
  • oxidation hair dye as oxidation dye precursor at least one
  • Containing developer component which is preferably selected from p-phenylenediamine, p-toluenediamine,, N, N-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) amino-p-phenylenediamine, 1, 3-bis - [(2-hydroxyethyl-4 ' - aminophenyl ) amino] -propan-2-ol, 1, 10-bis- (2 ', 5'-diaminophenyl) -1, 4,7,10-tetraoxadecane, 4- Aminophenol, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, bis (5-amino-2-hydroxyphenyl) methane, 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxy-4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 4,5-diamino -1- (2-hydroxyethyl) pyrazole.
  • the colorants used in the process according to the invention contain at least one coupler component.
  • coupler components m-phenylenediamine derivatives, naphthols, resorcinol and resorcinol derivatives, pyrazolones and m-aminophenol derivatives are generally used.
  • Suitable coupler substances are in particular 1-naphthol, 1, 5, 2,7- and 1, 7-dihydroxynaphthalene, 5-amino-2-methylphenol, m-aminophenol, resorcinol, resorcinol monomethyl ether, m-phenylenediamine, 1-phenyl-3 methyl pyrazolone-5, 2,4-dichloro-3-aminophenol, 1,3-bis- (2 ', 4'-diaminophenoxy) -propane, 2-chlororesorcinol, 4-chloro-resorcinol, 2-chloro 6-methyl-3-aminophenol, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, 2-methyl resorcinol, 5-methylresorcinol and 2-methyl-4
  • Coupler components preferred according to the invention are m-aminophenol and its derivatives, such as, for example, 5-amino-2-methylphenol, N-
  • Resorcinol monomethyl ether 2-methylresorcinol, 5-methylresorcinol, 2,5-dimethylresorcinol, 2-
  • Chlororesorcinol 4-chlororesorcinol, pyrogallol and 1,2,4-trihydroxybenzene
  • Pyridine derivatives such as 2,6-dihydroxypyridine, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, 2-amino-5-chloro-3-hydroxypyridine, 3-amino-2-methylamino-6-methoxypyridine, 2,6-dihydroxy-3,4 dimethylpyridine, 2,6-dihydroxy-4-methylpyridine, 2,6-diaminopyridine, 2,3-diamino-6-methoxypyridine and 3,5-diamino-2,6-dimethoxypyridine,
  • Naphthalene derivatives such as 1-naphthol, 2-methyl-1-naphthol, 2-hydroxymethyl-1-naphthol, 2-hydroxyethyl-1-naphthol, 1, 5-dihydroxynaphthalene, 1, 6-dihydroxynaphthalene, 1, 7 Dihydroxynaphthalene, 1,8-dihydroxynaphthalene, 2,7-dihydroxynaphthalene and 2,3-
  • Morpholine derivatives such as 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine and 6-aminobenzomorpholine,
  • Indole derivatives such as 4-hydroxyindole, 6-hydroxyindole and 7-hydroxyindole,
  • Pyrimidine derivatives such as 4,6-diaminopyrimidine, 4-amino-2,6-dihydroxypyrimidine,
  • Methylenedioxybenzene derivatives such as 1-hydroxy-3,4-methylenedioxybenzene, 1-
  • coupler components according to the invention are 1-naphthol, 1, 5, 2,7- and 1, 7-dihydroxynaphthalene, 3-aminophenol, 5-amino-2-methylphenol, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, resorcinol, 4-chlororesorcinol , 2-chloro-6-methyl-3-aminophenol, 2-methylresorcinol, 5-methylresorcinol, 2,5-dimethylresorcinol and 2,6-dihydroxy-3,4-dimethylpyridine.
  • the oxidation hair dye contains, as oxidation dye precursor, at least one coupler component which is preferably selected from resorcinol, 2-methylresorcinol, 5-methylresorcinol, 2,5-dimethylresorcinol, 4-chlororesorcinol, resorcinomonomethyl ether, 5-aminophenol, 5-amino-2-methylphenol, 5- (2-hydroxyethyl) amino-2-methylphenol, 3-amino-4-chloro-2-methylphenol, 3-amino-2-chloro-6-methylphenol, 3-amino-2 , 4-dichlorophenol, 2,4-diaminophenoxyethanol, 2-amino-4- (2'-hydroxyethyl) amino-anisole, 1, 3-bis (2,4-diaminophenoxy) propane, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, 2-Methylamino-3-amino-6-methoxypyridine, 2,6-dihydroxy-3,4
  • indoles and indolines which have at least one hydroxy or amino group, preferably as a substituent on the six-membered ring.
  • these groups may carry further substituents, e.g. Example in the form of etherification or esterification of the hydroxy group or alkylation of the amino group.
  • the colorants contain at least one indole and / or indoline derivative.
  • Particularly suitable precursors of naturally-analogous hair dyes are derivatives of 5,6-dihydroxyindoline of the formula (IIIa), in the independently of each other
  • R 1 is hydrogen, a C 1 -C 4 -alkyl group or a dC ⁇ hydroxy-alkyl group
  • R 2 is hydrogen or a -COOH group, wherein the -COOH group may also be present as a salt with a physiologically compatible cation,
  • R 3 is hydrogen or a C r C 4 alkyl group
  • R 4 is hydrogen, a dC-alkyl group or a group -CO-R 6 , in which R 6 is a Ci-C 4 alkyl group, and
  • R 5 is one of the groups mentioned under R 4 , as well as physiologically acceptable salts of these compounds with an organic or inorganic acid.
  • indoline Particularly preferred derivatives of indoline are 5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-methyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-ethyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-propyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline,
  • N-methyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline N-ethyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-propyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-butyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline and especially 5, 6-Dihydroxyindolin.
  • R is hydrogen, a C 1 -C 4 -alkyl group or a C 1 -C 4 -hydroxyalkyl group
  • R 2 is hydrogen or a -COOH group, wherein the -COOH group may also be present as a salt with a physiologically compatible cation,
  • R 3 is hydrogen or a dd-alkyl group
  • R 4 represents hydrogen, an alkyl group or dC a group -CO-R 6 in which R is a CrC t -alkyl group
  • R 5 is one of the groups mentioned under R 4 , as well as physiologically acceptable salts of these compounds with an organic or inorganic acid.
  • Particularly preferred derivatives of indole are 5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-methyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-ethyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-propyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-butyl-5,6- dihydroxyindole, 5,6-dihydroxyindole-2-carboxylic acid, 6-hydroxyindole, 6-aminoindole and 4-aminoindole.
  • N-methyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole N-ethyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-propyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-butyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, and especially the 5,6 -Dihydroxyindol.
  • the indoline and indole derivatives can be used in the colorants used in the process according to the invention both as free bases and in the form of their physiologically acceptable salts with inorganic or organic acids, for.
  • hydrochlorides sulfates and hydrobromides are used.
  • the indole or indoline derivatives are contained therein usually in amounts of 0.05-10 wt .-%, preferably 0.2-5 wt .-%.
  • the indoline or indole derivative in hair dyes in combination with at least one amino acid or an oligopeptide.
  • the amino acid is advantageously an ⁇ -amino acid;
  • Very particularly preferred ⁇ -amino acids are arginine, ornithine, lysine, serine and histidine, in particular arginine.
  • Preferred hair colorants used in the process according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one dye precursor from the groups of aromatic and heteroaromatic diamines, aminophenols, naphthols, polyphenols CH-acidic coupler components and their derivatives in amounts of from 0.01 to 25% by weight. %, preferably from 0.5 to 10 wt.%, In particular from 1 to 5 wt .-%, each based on the total agent included.
  • the colorants used in the process according to the invention for shading may contain one or more substantive dyes.
  • Direct dyes are usually nitrophenylenediamines, nitroaminophenols, azo dyes, anthraquinones or indophenols.
  • Preferred substantive dyes are those having the international designations or trade names HC Yellow 2, HC Yellow 4, HC Yellow 5, HC Yellow 6, HC Yellow 12, Acid Yellow 1, Acid Yellow 10, Acid Yellow 23, Acid Yellow 36, HC Orange 1, Disperse Orange 3, Acid Orange 7, HC Red 1, HC Red 3, HC Red 10, HC Red
  • Corresponding methods according to the invention in which the means for dyeing and / or whitening hair, based on its weight, is 0.01 to 20% by weight, preferably 0.05 to 15% by weight, particularly preferably 0.1 to 12.5 Wt .-% and in particular 0.2 to 10 wt .-% of one or more reactive carbonyl compound (s), are preferred.
  • the means for dyeing and / or whitening hair at least one substantive dye from the group of cationic (basic) dyes, preferably Basic Blue 6, CI-No. 51, 175; Basic Blue 7, Cl-No. 42.595; Basic Blue 9, Cl-No. 52.015; Basic Blue 26, Cl-No. 44.045; Basic Blue 41, CI- No. 11, 154; Basic Blue 99, Cl-No. 56.059; Basic Brown 4, Cl-No. 21, 010; Basic Brown 16, Cl- No. 12.250; Basic Brown 17, Cl-No. 12,251; Basic Green 1, Cl-No. 42.040; Basic Orange 31; Basic Red 2, Cl-No. 50.240; Basic Red 22, Cl-No.
  • Basic Blue 6 cationic (basic) dyes
  • the hair dyeing agents used in the process of the invention may contain a cationic direct dye. Particularly preferred are
  • aromatic systems substituted with a quaternary nitrogen group such as Basic Yellow 57, Basic Red 76, Basic Blue 99, Basic Brown 16 and Basic Brown 17, as well as
  • Preferred cationic substantive dyes of group (c) are in particular the following compounds:
  • the compounds of the formulas (DZ1), (DZ3) and (DZ5) which are also known by the names Basic Yellow 87, Basic Orange 31 and Basic Red 51, are very particularly preferred cationic substantive dyes of group (c).
  • the cationic direct dyes which are sold under the trademark Arianor ® are, according to the invention also very particularly preferred cationic direct dyes.
  • the agents used according to the invention according to this embodiment preferably contain the substantive dyes in an amount of 0.01 to 20 wt .-%, based on the total colorant.
  • the preparations used according to the invention may also contain naturally occurring dyes such as those found in henna red, henna neutral, henna black, chamomile flower, sandalwood, black tea, buckthorn bark, sage, sawnwood, madder root, catechu, sedre and alkana root. It is not necessary for the oxidation dye precursors or the direct dyes to be in each case homogeneous compounds. Rather, in the hair colorants used in the invention, due to the production process for the individual dyes, in minor amounts, other components may be included, as far as they do not adversely affect the staining or other reasons, such as toxicological, must be excluded.
  • naturally occurring dyes such as those found in henna red, henna neutral, henna black, chamomile flower, sandalwood, black tea, buckthorn bark, sage, sawnwood, madder root, catechu, sedre and alkana root. It is not necessary for the oxidation dye precursors or the direct
  • the hair dyeing agent used according to the invention additionally comprises a combination of component A compounds which contain a reactive carbonyl group with component B compounds selected from (a) CH-acidic compounds, (b) compounds having a primary or secondary amino group or hydroxy group selected from primary or secondary aromatic amines, nitrogen-containing heterocyclic compounds and aromatic hydroxy compounds, (c) amino acids, (d) oligopeptides synthesized from 2 to 9 amino acids.
  • component A compounds which contain a reactive carbonyl group selected from (a) CH-acidic compounds, (b) compounds having a primary or secondary amino group or hydroxy group selected from primary or secondary aromatic amines, nitrogen-containing heterocyclic compounds and aromatic hydroxy compounds, (c) amino acids, (d) oligopeptides synthesized from 2 to 9 amino acids.
  • Useful compounds according to the invention having a reactive carbonyl group have at least one carbonyl group as reactive group which reacts with the compounds of component B to form a chemical bond linking both components.
  • those compounds according to the invention are also included as component A in which the reactive carbonyl group is derivatized or masked in such a way that the reactivity of the carbon atom of the derivatized or masked carbonyl group with respect to component B is always present.
  • These derivatives are preferably condensation compounds of reactive carbonyl compounds with a) amines and their derivatives to form imines or oximes as the condensation compound b) of alcohols to form acetals or ketals as a condensation compound.
  • Component A is preferably selected from the group consisting of acetophenone, propiophenone, 2-hydroxyacetophenone, 3-hydroxyacetophenone, 4-hydroxyacetophenone, 2-hydroxypropiophenone, 3-hydroxypropiophenone, 4-hydroxypropiophenone, 2-hydroxybutyrophenone, 3-hydroxybutyrophenone, 4-hydroxybutyrophenone, 2,4-dihydroxyacetophenone, 2,5-dihydroxyacetophenone, 2,6-dihydroxyacetophenone, 2,3,4-trihydroxyacetophenone, 3,4,5-trihydroxyacetophenone, 2,4,6-trihydroxyacetophenone, 2,4, 6-trimethoxyacetophenone, 3,4,5-trimethoxyacetophenone, 3,4,5-trimethoxyacetophenone diethyl ketal, 4-hydroxy-3-methoxyacetophenone, 3,5-dimethoxy-4-hydroxyacetophenone, 4-aminoacetophenone, 4-aminoacetophenone, 4-aminoacetophenone
  • CH-acidic compounds are generally considered to carry a bound to an aliphatic carbon atom hydrogen atom, wherein due to electron-withdrawing substituents activation of the corresponding carbon-hydrogen bond is effected.
  • CH-acidic compounds also include enamines which are formed by alkaline treatment of quaternized N-heterocycles with a CH-acidic alkyl group in conjugation with the quaternary nitrogen.
  • the CH-acidic compounds of component B are preferably selected from the group consisting of 1, 2,3,3-tetramethyl-3H-indolium iodide, 1, 2,3,3-tetramethyl-3H-indolium-p- toluenesulfonate, 1,2,3,3-tetramethyl-3H-indolium methanesulfonate, 1,3,3-trimethyl-2-methylenindoline (Fischer's base), 2,3-dimethylbenzothiazolium iodide, 2,3-dimethylbenzothiazolium p-toluenesulfonate, 2,3-dimethylnaphtho [1,2-d] thiazolium p-toluenesulfonate, 3-ethyl-2-methylnaphtho [1,2-d] thiazolium p-toluenesulfonate, rhodanine, Rhodanine-3-acetic acid, 1, 4-
  • the hair dyeing agents used in the invention may contain other ingredients.
  • use of certain metal ions or complexes may be preferred to obtain intense colorations.
  • Agents according to the invention which additionally contain Cu, Fe, Mn, Ru ions or complexes of these ions are preferred here.
  • Preferred hair coloring agents used according to the invention contain from 0.0001 to 2.5% by weight, preferably from 0.001 to 1% by weight, based on the total composition of the composition, of at least one compound from the group consisting of copper chloride (CuCl 2 ), copper sulfate (CuSO 4 ), iron (II) sulfate, manganese (II) sulfate, manganese (II) chloride, cobalt (II) chloride, cerium sulfate, cerium chloride, vanadium sulfate, potassium iodide, sodium iodide, lithium chloride, potassium dichromate, magnesium acetate, calcium chloride, calcium nitrate, barium nitrate , Manganese dioxide (MnO 2 ) and / or hydroquinone.
  • CuCl 2 copper chloride
  • CuSO 4 copper sulfate
  • iron (II) sulfate manganese (II) sulfate
  • the hair dyeing agents used according to the invention at least one ammonium compound selected from ammonium chloride, ammonium carbonate, ammonium bicarbonate, ammonium sulfate and / or ammonium carbamate in an amount of 0.5 to 10, preferably 1 to 5 wt .-%, based on contain the total composition of the agent.
  • the hair dyeing agents used according to the invention may furthermore contain all active ingredients, additives and auxiliaries known for such preparations.
  • the colorants contain at least one surfactant, wherein in principle both anionic and zwitterionic, ampholytic, nonionic and cationic surfactants are suitable. In many cases, however, it has proved to be advantageous to select the surfactants from anionic, zwitterionic or nonionic surfactants.
  • Suitable anionic surfactants in preparations used according to the invention are all anionic surfactants suitable for use on the human body. These are characterized by a water-solubilizing, anionic group such.
  • Example a carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate or phosphate group and a lipophilic alkyl group having about 10 to 22 carbon atoms.
  • glycol or polyglycol ether groups, ester, ether and amide groups and hydroxyl groups may be present in the molecule.
  • suitable anionic surfactants are, in each case in the form of the sodium, potassium and ammonium and the mono-, di- and Trialkanolammoniumsalze with 2 or 3 C atoms in the alkanol group, linear fatty acids having 10 to 22 carbon atoms (soaps )
  • Ethercarbon Acid the formula RO- (CH 2 -CH 2 O) x -CH 2 -COOH, in which R is a linear
  • Alkyl group having 10 to 22 C atoms and x 0 or 1 to 16,
  • Sulfosuccinic acid mono-alkylpolyoxyethyl esters having 8 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups, linear alkanesulfonates having 12 to 18 C atoms, linear ⁇ -olefin sulfonates having 12 to 18 C atoms,
  • Alpha-sulfofatty acid methyl esters of fatty acids containing 12 to 18 carbon atoms are especially preferred.
  • Alkyl sulfates and alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates of the formula RO (CH 2 -CH 2 O) x -SO 3 H, in which R is a preferably linear alkyl group having 10 to 18 C atoms and x 0 or 1 to 12,
  • esters of tartaric acid and citric acid with alcohols the addition products of about
  • Preferred anionic surfactants are alkyl sulfates, alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates and ether carboxylic acids having 10 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and up to 12 glycol ether groups in the molecule and in particular salts of saturated and in particular unsaturated C 8 -C 22 carboxylic acids, such as oleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid and palmitic acid , Nonionic surfactants contain as hydrophilic group z.
  • Such compounds are, for example
  • Alkylphenols having 8 to 15 C atoms in the alkyl group having 8 to 15 C atoms in the alkyl group
  • Preferred nonionic surfactants are alkyl polyglycosides of the general formula R 1 O- (Z) x . These connections are identified by the following parameters.
  • the alkyl radical R 1 contains 6 to 22 carbon atoms and may be both linear and branched. Preference is given to primary linear and methyl-branched in the 2-position aliphatic radicals.
  • Such alkyl radicals are, for example, 1-octyl, 1-decyl, 1-lauryl, 1-myristyl, 1-cetyl and 1-stearyl. Particularly preferred are 1-octyl, 1-decyl, 1-lauryl, 1-myristyl.
  • oxo-alcohols compounds with an odd number of carbon atoms in the alkyl chain predominate.
  • the alkyl polyglycosides which can be used according to the invention can contain, for example, only one particular alkyl radical R 1 .
  • these compounds are prepared starting from natural fats and oils or mineral oils.
  • the alkyl radicals R are mixtures corresponding to the starting compounds or corresponding to the particular work-up of these compounds.
  • R 1 consists essentially of C 8 and C 10 alkyl groups, essentially of C 12 and C 30 alkyl groups, essentially of C 8 to C 16 alkyl groups or essentially of C 12 - To C 16 alkyl groups.
  • sugar building block Z it is possible to use any desired mono- or oligosaccharides.
  • sugars with 5 or 6 carbon atoms and the corresponding oligosaccharides are used.
  • Such sugars are, for example, glucose, fructose, galactose, arabinose, ribose, xylose, lyxose, allose, altrose, mannose, gulose, idose, talose and sucrose.
  • Preferred sugar building blocks are glucose, fructose, galactose, arabinose and sucrose; Glucose is particularly preferred.
  • the alkyl polyglycosides which can be used according to the invention contain on average from 1.1 to 5 sugar units. Alkyl polyglycosides having x values of 1.1 to 1.6 are preferred. Very particular preference is given to alkyl glycosides in which x is 1: 1 to 1, 4.
  • the alkyl glycosides can also serve to improve the fixation of fragrance components on the hair.
  • this substance class as a further constituent of the preparations according to the invention in the event that an effect of the perfume oil on the hair which exceeds the duration of the hair treatment is desired.
  • alkoxylated homologs of said alkyl polyglycosides can also be used according to the invention. These homologs may contain on average up to 10 ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide units per alkyl glycoside unit.
  • zwitterionic surfactants can be used, in particular as cosurfactants.
  • Zwitterionic surfactants are those surface-active compounds which carry in the molecule at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one -COO ' ' '- or -SO 3 ⁇ -GrUpPe.
  • Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines, such as the N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example the cocoalkyldimethylammonium glycineate, N-acylaminopropyl-N, N-dimethylammoniumglycinate, for example the cocoacylaminopropylpropane Dimethylammoniumglycinat, and 2-alkyl-3-carboxylmethyl-3-hydroxyethyl-imidazolines each having 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group and Kokosacylaminoethylhydroxy- ethylcarboxymethylglycinat.
  • a preferred zwitterionic surfactant is the fatty acid amide derivative known by the INCI name Cocamidopropyl Betaine.
  • ampholytic surfactants are to be understood as meaning those surface-active compounds which, apart from a C 8 -C 18 -alkyl or acyl group in the molecule, contain at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH or -SO 3 H group and which are capable of forming internal salts are.
  • ampholytic surfactants are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids each having about 8 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl group.
  • Particularly preferred ampholytic surfactants are N-coconut alkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethyl aminopropionate and C 12-i 8 acyl sarcosine.
  • the cationic surfactants used are, in particular, those of the quaternary ammonium compound type, the esterquats and the amidoamines.
  • Preferred quaternary ammonium compounds are ammonium halides, especially chlorides and bromides, such as alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides and trialkylmethylammonium chlorides, e.g.
  • cetyltrimethylammonium chloride stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylbenzylammonium chloride and tricetylmethylammonium chloride, as well as the imidazolium compounds known under the INCI names Quaternium-27 and Quaternium-83.
  • the long alkyl chains of the above-mentioned surfactants preferably have 10 to 18 carbon atoms.
  • Esterquats are known substances which contain both at least one ester function and at least one quaternary ammonium group as a structural element.
  • Preferred ester quats are quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with triethanolamine, quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with diethanolalkylamines and quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with 1,2-dihydroxypropyldialkylamines.
  • Such products are marketed under the trade names Stepantex® ®, ® and Dehyquart® Armocare® ®.
  • alkylamidoamines are usually prepared by amidation of natural or synthetic fatty acids and fatty acid cuts with dialkylaminoamines.
  • An inventively particularly suitable compound from this group is that available under the name Tegoamid ® S 18 commercially stearamidopropyl dimethylamine.
  • cationic surfactants which can be used according to the invention are the quaternized protein hydrolysates.
  • cationic silicone oils such as, for example, the commercially available products Q2-7224 (manufacturer: Dow Corning, a stabilized trimethylsilylamodimethicone), Dow Corning 929 emulsion (containing a hydroxylamino-modified silicone, also referred to as amodimethicones), SM -2059 (manufacturer: General Electric), SLM-55067 (manufacturer: Wacker) and Abil ® quat 3270 and 3272 (manufacturer: Th. Goldschmidt; di- quaternary polydimethylsiloxanes, quaternium-80).
  • a suitable cationic surfactant quaternary sugar derivative is the commercial product Glucquat ® 100, according to INCI nomenclature a "lauryl methyl Gluceth-10 Hydroxypropyl Dimonium Chloride”.
  • the compounds used as surfactant with alkyl groups may each be uniform substances. However, it is usually preferred in the manufacture of this Substances may originate from native plant or animal raw materials, so that substance mixtures with different alkyl chain lengths depending on the respective raw material are obtained.
  • both products with a "normal” homolog distribution and those with a narrow homolog distribution can be used.
  • "normal” homolog distribution are meant mixtures of homologs obtained in the reaction of fatty alcohol and alkylene oxide using alkali metals, alkali metal hydroxides or alkali metal alcoholates as catalysts. Narrowed homolog distributions are obtained when, for example, hydrotalcites, alkaline earth metal salts of ether carboxylic acids, alkaline earth metal oxides, hydroxides or alkoxides are used as catalysts. The use of products with narrow homolog distribution may be preferred.
  • hair dyeing agents used according to the invention may have further active,
  • nonionic polymers such as vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acrylate copolymers, polyvinylpyrrolidone and vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers and polysiloxanes
  • cationic polymers such as quaternized cellulose ethers, polysiloxanes with quaternary groups, dimethyldiallylammonium chloride polymers, acrylamide-dimethyldiallylammonium chloride Copolymers, diethyl sulfate quaternized dimethylaminoethylmethacrylate-vinylpyrrolidone copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone-imidazolinium methochloride copolymers and quaternized polyvinyl alcohol, zwitterionic and amphoteric polymers such as, for example, acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride / acrylate copolymers and octylacrylamide /
  • bentonite or fully synthetic hydrocolloids such as polyvinyl alcohol, structurants such as maleic acid and lactic acid, hair conditioning compounds such as phospholipids, such as soybean lecithin, egg lecithin and cephalins, Protein hydrolysates, in particular elastin, collagen, keratin, milk protein, soy protein and wheat protein hydrolysates, their condensation products with fatty acids and quaternized protein hydrolysates,
  • Solvents and mediators such as ethanol, isopropanol, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, glycerol and diethylene glycol, fiber-structure-improving agents, especially mono-, di- and oligosaccharides such as glucose, galactose, fructose, fructose and lactose, quaternized amines such as methyl-1-alkylamidoethyl-2 -alkylimidazolinium methosulfate defoamers such as silicones, dyes for staining the agent,
  • Antidandruff active ingredients such as Piroctone Olamine, zinc Omadine and climbazole, light stabilizers, in particular derivatized benzophenones, cinnamic acid derivatives and triazines, substances for adjusting the pH, such as customary acids, especially edible acids and bases,
  • Active ingredients such as allantoin, pyrrolidonecarboxylic acids and their salts, and also bisabolol, vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors, in particular those of groups A, B 3 , B 5 , B 6 , C, E, F and H,
  • Plant extracts such as extracts of green tea, oak bark, stinging nettle, witch hazel, hops, chamomile, burdock root, horsetail, hawthorn, lime blossom, almond, aloe vera, spruce needle, horse chestnut, sandalwood, juniper, coconut, mango, apricot, lime, wheat, kiwi , Melon, orange, grapefruit, sage, rosemary, birch, mallow, meadowfoam, quenelle, yarrow, thyme, lemon balm, toadstool, coltsfoot, marshmallow, meristem, ginseng and ginger root ,. Cholesterol,
  • Bodying agents such as sugar esters, polyol esters or polyol alkyl ethers, fats and waxes such as spermaceti, beeswax, montan wax and paraffins, fatty acid alkanolamides,
  • Complexing agents such as EDTA, NTA, ⁇ -alaninediacetic acid and phosphonic acids, swelling and penetrating agents such as glycerol, propylene glycol monoethyl ether, carbonates, bicarbonates, guanidines, ureas and primary, secondary and tertiary phosphates, opacifiers such as latex, styrene / PVP and styrene / acrylamide copolymers Pearlescing agents such as ethylene glycol mono- and distearate and PEG-3-distearate, pigments,
  • Stabilizers for hydrogen peroxide and other oxidizing agents propellants such as propane-butane mixtures, N 2 O, dimethyl ether, CO 2 and air, antioxidants
  • the hair colorants used according to the invention preferably contain the active substances in a suitable aqueous, alcoholic or aqueous-alcoholic carrier.
  • a suitable aqueous, alcoholic or aqueous-alcoholic carrier are, for example, creams, emulsions, gels or surfactant-containing foaming solutions, such as shampoos, foam aerosols or other preparations which are suitable for use on the hair.
  • surfactant-containing foaming solutions such as shampoos, foam aerosols or other preparations which are suitable for use on the hair.
  • aqueous-alcoholic solutions of the present invention are aqueous solutions containing, to understand 3 to 70 wt .-% of a C r C 4 -alcohol, in particular ethanol or isopropanol in a sense.
  • the compositions of the invention may additionally contain other organic solvents, such as methoxybutanol, benzyl alcohol, ethyl diglycol or 1, 2-propylene glycol. Preference is given to all water-soluble organic solvents.
  • Preferred hair coloring agents used according to the invention are characterized in that they additionally contain a non-aqueous solvent, with particularly preferred compositions according to the invention containing the solvent in a concentration of 0.1-30% by weight, preferably in a concentration of 1-20% by weight, very particularly preferably in a concentration of 2 to 10 percent by weight, based in each case on the composition.
  • the solvent is selected from ethanol, n-propanol, isoropanol, n-butanol, propylene glycol, n-butylene glycol, glycerol, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether, diethylene glycol mono-n-butyl ether, phenoxyethanol and benzyl alcohol and mixtures thereof.
  • the pH of the hair coloring agent used in the present invention can be adjusted within a wide range by suitable ingredients such as acidifying agent or alkalizing agent.
  • suitable ingredients such as acidifying agent or alkalizing agent.
  • Preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that the pH of the composition is 6 to 11, preferably 7.5 to 10 and particularly preferably 8 to 9.
  • Oxidative dyeing of the fibers can in principle be carried out with atmospheric oxygen in the presence of oxidation dye precursors.
  • a chemical oxidizing agent is used, especially if, in addition to the coloring, a lightening effect on human hair is desired. This lightening effect may be desired regardless of the staining method.
  • the presence of oxidation dye precursors is not a mandatory requirement for the use of oxidizing agents in the compositions according to the invention.
  • Suitable oxidizing agents are persulfates, chlorites and in particular hydrogen peroxide or its addition products of urea, melamine and sodium borate.
  • the oxidation colorant can also be applied to the hair together with a catalyst which promotes the oxidation of the dye precursors, e.g. by atmospheric oxygen, activated.
  • catalysts are e.g. Metal ions, iodides, quinones or certain enzymes.
  • Suitable metal ions are, for example, Zn 2+ , Cu 2+ , Fe 2+ , Fe 3+ , Mn 2+ , Mn 4+ , Li + , Mg 2+ , Ca 2+ and Al 3+ . Particularly suitable are Zn 2+ , Cu 2+ and Mn 2+ .
  • the metal ions can in principle be used in the form of any physiologically acceptable salt or in the form of a complex compound.
  • Preferred salts are the acetates, sulfates, halides, lactates and tartrates.
  • Suitable enzymes are e.g. Peroxidases that can significantly increase the effect of small amounts of hydrogen peroxide. Furthermore, such enzymes are suitable according to the invention which directly oxidize the oxidation dye precursors with the aid of atmospheric oxygen, such as, for example, the laccases, or generate small amounts of hydrogen peroxide in situ and thus biocatalytically activate the oxidation of the dye precursors. Particularly suitable catalysts for the oxidation of the dye precursors are the so-called 2-electron oxidoreductases in combination with the specific substrates, e.g.
  • Lactate oxidase and lactic acid and their salts Lactate oxidase and lactic acid and their salts
  • the actual colorant is expediently immediately before use by mixing the preparation of the oxidizing agent with the preparation containing the compounds of the formula I and, if appropriate, dye precursors, produced.
  • the resulting ready-to-use hair dye preparation should preferably have a pH in the range from 6 to 12. Particularly preferred is the use of the hair dye in a weakly alkaline medium.
  • the application temperatures can be in a range between 15 and 40 0 C.
  • the hair dye is removed by rinsing of the hair to be dyed. The washing with a shampoo is omitted if a strong surfactant-containing carrier, such as a dyeing shampoo was used.
  • an agent used according to the invention for dyeing hair can also be applied to the hair without prior mixing with the oxidation component.
  • the oxidation component is then applied, if appropriate after an intermediate rinse.
  • the corresponding agent is adjusted to a pH of about 4 to 7.
  • an air oxidation is initially desired, wherein the applied agent preferably has a pH of 7 to 10.
  • the use of acidified peroxydisulfate solutions may be preferred as the oxidizing agent.

Abstract

L'invention concerne des procédés de traitement de fibres kératiniques, en particulier de traitement des cheveux, ces procédés consistant à appliquer sur les cheveux un produit pour colorer et/ou éclaircir les cheveux, puis à exposer les cheveux traités après application du produit à un rayonnement ultraviolet dans une gamme de longueurs d'onde comprise entre 200 et 600 nm pendant 1 à 60 minutes. Ces procédés permettent de réduire les temps d'action et d'améliorer les résultats de la coloration et/ou de l'éclaircissement sur les cheveux ainsi traités.
PCT/EP2006/009125 2005-10-28 2006-09-20 Procedes de coloration et/ou d'eclaircissement des cheveux presentant une efficacite amelioree grace a la lumiere ultraviolette WO2007048473A1 (fr)

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DE102005052139.8 2005-10-28
DE200510052139 DE102005052139A1 (de) 2005-10-28 2005-10-28 Haarfärbe- und/oder -aufhellverfahren mit verbesserter Wirksamkeit

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Cited By (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2015082184A1 (fr) * 2013-12-06 2015-06-11 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Agents de coloration capillaire contenant des combinaisons spéciales de bases d'oxydation et de coupleurs
WO2015082228A1 (fr) * 2013-12-06 2015-06-11 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Agents de coloration d'oxydation de cheveux contenant des combinaisons spéciales de bases et de coupleurs
WO2015165949A1 (fr) 2014-04-30 2015-11-05 L'oreal Procédé de blanchiment ou de teinture de fibres de kératine utilisant une composition oxydante et un rayonnement uv visible
WO2021185920A1 (fr) 2020-03-17 2021-09-23 L'oreal Procédé de blanchiment de fibres de kératine à l'aide d'une composition oxydante et d'un rayonnement uv-visible
US11129782B2 (en) 2017-11-15 2021-09-28 National University Of Singapore Derivatives of PPD useful for coloring hair and skin

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WO2010103161A1 (fr) * 2009-03-12 2010-09-16 Jose Chafer Jose Luis Nouvelle formulation pour la teinture des cheveux, teinture pour les cheveux et dispositif d'application
ES2350080B1 (es) * 2009-05-12 2011-12-19 Jose Luis Jose Chafer Nueva formulacion para el tinte del cabello.
FR2954118B1 (fr) * 2009-12-23 2012-04-13 Oreal Procede pour colorer les fibres keratiniques mettant en oeuvre au moins un derive d'orthodiphenol un oxyde metallique particulier, un agent alcalinisant sous photoirradiation
FR2990944A1 (fr) 2012-05-23 2013-11-29 Oreal Procede de coloration des fibres keratiniques comprenant un colorant /pigment, un compose photoactif, et une source lumineuse
DE102013225193A1 (de) * 2013-12-06 2015-06-11 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Mittel zum oxidativen Färben von Haaren enthaltend spezielle Kombinationen von Entwicklern und Kupplern
DE102013225185A1 (de) * 2013-12-06 2015-06-11 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Mittel zum oxidationen Färben von Haaren enthaltend spezielle Kombinationen von Entwicklern und Kupplern

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WO2004058187A2 (fr) * 2002-12-20 2004-07-15 University Of Massachusetts Polymeres photoreactifs et dispositifs destines a etre utilises dans des traitements capillaires
FR2854570A1 (fr) * 2003-05-09 2004-11-12 Oreal Procede de traitement des fibres keratiniques par application de chaleur
WO2005011626A1 (fr) * 2003-07-30 2005-02-10 Mnemoscience Gmbh Procede de creation d'effets de memoire de forme sur des cheveux
WO2006010661A1 (fr) * 2004-07-24 2006-02-02 Beiersdorf Ag Produits pour la peau et/ou les cheveux contenant des composes destines a accentuer le bronzage

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US4682612A (en) * 1983-08-12 1987-07-28 Zotos International, Inc. Novel process and article for preparing artificial nails
US4792341A (en) * 1986-06-19 1988-12-20 Clairol Incorporated Hair photobleaching
WO1991006279A2 (fr) * 1989-11-01 1991-05-16 Wella Aktiengesellschaft Agent et procede de decoloration des cheveux sous l'effet d e la lumiere
WO1993024701A1 (fr) * 1992-06-04 1993-12-09 Ciba-Geigy Ag Procede de fixation de colorants ayant au moins une double liaison polymerisable, au moyen de lumiere uv
DE4238456A1 (de) * 1992-11-13 1994-05-19 Nwl Laser Tech Gmbh Verfahren zur Einwirkung auf Haare zu kosmetischen Zwecken
EP0682937A1 (fr) * 1994-05-04 1995-11-22 L'oreal, S.A. Amélioration de traitements cosmétiques de cheveux décolorés par décoloration laser
US6073635A (en) * 1997-07-28 2000-06-13 Todd; Mark D. Apparatus for crimping and tattooing hair
DE10000807A1 (de) * 2000-01-12 2001-07-19 Basf Ag Verfahren zur Behandlung eines kosmetischen Mittels durch Bestrahlung mit NIR-Strahlung, sowie dessen Verwendung
DE10215858A1 (de) * 2002-04-10 2004-03-18 Mnemoscience Gmbh Verfahren zur Haarbehandlung mit Formgedächtnispolymeren
WO2004058187A2 (fr) * 2002-12-20 2004-07-15 University Of Massachusetts Polymeres photoreactifs et dispositifs destines a etre utilises dans des traitements capillaires
FR2854570A1 (fr) * 2003-05-09 2004-11-12 Oreal Procede de traitement des fibres keratiniques par application de chaleur
WO2005011626A1 (fr) * 2003-07-30 2005-02-10 Mnemoscience Gmbh Procede de creation d'effets de memoire de forme sur des cheveux
WO2006010661A1 (fr) * 2004-07-24 2006-02-02 Beiersdorf Ag Produits pour la peau et/ou les cheveux contenant des composes destines a accentuer le bronzage

Cited By (9)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2015082184A1 (fr) * 2013-12-06 2015-06-11 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Agents de coloration capillaire contenant des combinaisons spéciales de bases d'oxydation et de coupleurs
WO2015082228A1 (fr) * 2013-12-06 2015-06-11 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Agents de coloration d'oxydation de cheveux contenant des combinaisons spéciales de bases et de coupleurs
US9655827B2 (en) 2013-12-06 2017-05-23 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Agents for oxidatively dyeing hair containing specific combinations of developers and couplers
US9707166B2 (en) 2013-12-06 2017-07-18 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Means for dyeing hair, containing specific combinations of developers and couplers
WO2015165949A1 (fr) 2014-04-30 2015-11-05 L'oreal Procédé de blanchiment ou de teinture de fibres de kératine utilisant une composition oxydante et un rayonnement uv visible
US9895299B2 (en) 2014-04-30 2018-02-20 L'oreal Process for bleaching or dyeing keratin fibres using an oxidizing composition and UV-visible radiation
US11129782B2 (en) 2017-11-15 2021-09-28 National University Of Singapore Derivatives of PPD useful for coloring hair and skin
WO2021185920A1 (fr) 2020-03-17 2021-09-23 L'oreal Procédé de blanchiment de fibres de kératine à l'aide d'une composition oxydante et d'un rayonnement uv-visible
FR3108254A1 (fr) 2020-03-17 2021-09-24 L'oreal Procédé de décoloration des fibres kératiniques mettant en œuvre une composition oxydante et un rayonnement UV-Visible

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