WO2007048472A1

WO2007048472A1 - Hair treatment method that provides improved hair care and agent for carrying out said method

Info

Publication number: WO2007048472A1
Application number: PCT/EP2006/009124
Authority: WO
Inventors: Kai Böge; Hans Dolhaine; Steve DÖRING
Original assignee: Henkel Kommanditgesellschaft Auf Aktien
Priority date: 2005-10-28
Filing date: 2006-09-20
Publication date: 2007-05-03
Also published as: DE102005052140A1

Abstract

The invention relates to a method for treating keratin fibres, in particular human hair. According to said method, a hair treatment agent is applied to the hair and the hair thus treated is subsequently irradiated with UV radiation in the wavelength range of 200 to 600 nm for 1 to 60 minutes. Said method improves the hair care characteristics of the treated hair.

Description

Hair treatment process with improved care performance and apparatus and means for performing the method

The invention relates to a hair treatment method which cares for the treated hair and to devices and means for carrying out this method.

The cosmetic treatment of skin and hair is an important part of human body care. For example, human hair is today treated in a variety of ways with hair cosmetic preparations. These include, for example, the cleansing of hair with shampoos, the care and regeneration with rinses and cures and the bleaching, dyeing and shaping of the hair with dyes, tinting agents, waving agents and styling preparations.

Not least due to the heavy use of hair, for example by dyeing or perming, as well as by the cleaning of the hair with shampoos and by environmental pollution, the importance of care products with the longest possible effect increases. Such care products affect the natural structure and properties of the hair. Thus, for example, the wet and dry combability of the hair, the hold and the fullness of the hair can be optimized or the hair can be protected from increased splits following such treatments.

It has therefore long been customary to subject the hair to a special aftertreatment. In this case, the hair is treated with special active ingredients, for example quaternary ammonium salts or special polymers, usually in the form of a rinse. Depending on the formulation, this treatment improves the combability, the hold and the fullness of the hair and reduces the splitting rate.

Furthermore, so-called combination preparations have recently been developed in order to reduce the expense of the usual multi-stage process, especially in the direct application by consumers.

These preparations contain, in addition to the usual components, for example for the cleaning of the hair, in addition to active ingredients which were formerly reserved for the hair aftertreatment agents. The consumer thus saves an application step; At the same time, packaging costs are reduced because one product is less needed.

The available active ingredients both for separate aftertreatment agents and for combination preparations generally have a preferential effect on the hair surface. So are Active ingredients known that give the hair shine, hold, fullness, better wet or dry combing or prevent splitting.

However, the known active ingredients can not cover all needs sufficiently. There is therefore still a need for active ingredients or combinations of active substances for cosmetic products with good care properties and good biodegradability. In particular in dye-containing and / or electrolyte-containing formulations, there is a need for additional skin-care active ingredients which can be incorporated without problems into known formulations.

It is often possible to improve the effects of active substances or combinations of active substances when they are used in the context of certain processes. It is also possible to achieve an increased advantage by means of targeted procedures using per se known active substances or combinations of active substances.

It is an object of the present invention to provide a hair treatment method that differs from the prior art by advantages in terms of application and / or the effects achieved. In particular, care effects should be intensified and / or treatment or exposure times should be shortened. In particular, the mechanical stability and resilience of hair, especially wet and dry combability and the grip of wet and dry hair should be improved.

It has now been found that it is advantageous to apply hair treatment compositions to the hair and to irradiate the hair thus treated with UV radiation before rinsing the hair treatment agent. It has also been found that hair treatment compositions containing certain ingredients can be particularly applied in the process according to the invention and cause even more enhanced care effects compared to conventional hair treatment products.

A first object of the present invention is a process for the treatment of keratinous fibers, in particular human hair, in which a hair treatment agent applied to the hair and the treated hair after application of the agent for 1 to 60 minutes with UV radiation in the wavelength range 200 to 600 nm is irradiated.

UV radiation (ultraviolet radiation) are electromagnetic waves of the wavelength of about 380 to 10 nm or a frequency of about 790 THz to 30 PHz. The energy of a single light quantum is in the range of about 3.3 eV (380 nm) to about 124 eV (10 nm). Ultraviolet radiation is not visible. However, it pays to the group of optical wavelengths, which is why the misleading term "UV light" is often encountered. Like the light of other wavelengths or infrared radiation, UV radiation can be refracted, reflected, transmitted, absorbed and diffracted.

By fluorescence, ultraviolet radiation can be indirectly made visible.

Below a wavelength of about 200 nm, the energy of a single ultraviolet quantum of light is sufficient to dissolve electrons from atoms or molecules, i. to ionize them. As well as gamma and X-radiation, short-wave ultraviolet radiation below about 200 nm is therefore called ionizing radiation.

In the method according to the invention, a hair treatment agent is applied to the hair to be treated and then irradiated with UV light. Because the head of the person being treated is exposed to UV light, the usual precautions for handling ultraviolet radiation should be observed. In particular, too long a period of irradiation should be avoided. Here, preference is given to processes according to the invention in which the treated hair is UV-A after exposure to the composition for 1 to 60 minutes, preferably 2 to 50 minutes, more preferably 5 to 40 minutes and especially 10 to 30 minutes (400-320 nm) and / or UV-B (320-280 nm) and / or UV-C (280-200 nm) is irradiated.

In the context of the method according to the invention, irradiation with UV-A radiation is particularly preferred, since the shorter-wave radiation types can cause health irritations, in particular during prolonged irradiation periods. Particularly preferred is the use of UV radiation with wavelengths above 350 nm, for example those with wavelengths of 365 nm, those with wavelengths of 370-375 nm, those with wavelengths of 380-385 nm, those with wavelengths of 390-395 nm or such with a wavelength of 400 nm.

Following irradiation, the hair treatment agent applied to the hair prior to irradiation may be left on the hair (eg, hair conditioners or styling agents such as hair sprays, hair gels, etc.) or rinsed from the hair (e.g., shampoos or conditioners). According to preferred methods are characterized in that the hair treatment agent is rinsed out of the hair after irradiation.

As already mentioned above, methods according to the invention are preferred in which the hair treatment agent used contains certain ingredients. Although already improved with conventional hair treatment compositions by the inventive method Care achievements, but these positive effects can be increased even more by using specially prepared hair treatment products.

Methods preferred according to the invention are therefore characterized in that the hair treatment agent - based on its weight - 0.01 to 10 wt .-%, preferably 0.025 to 5 wt .-%, more preferably 0.05 to 2.5 wt .-% and in particular 0.1 to 1 wt .-% photopolymerizable substance (s).

In the context of the present invention, the term "photopolymerisable substances" denotes compounds which are capable of reacting with themselves or other substances or substrates under the action of UV radiation and thus form larger molecules or molecular assemblies. "Photopolymerizable" For the purposes of the present invention, therefore, not only substances which polymerize in the narrow sense of the word, but also those which react under the action of UV radiation with other ingredients of the hair treatment composition and / or the hair surface and enter into bonds.

Preferred photopolymerizable substances are carbonyl compounds. Here, preference is given to processes according to the invention which are characterized in that the hair treatment agent contains at least one carbonyl compound of the formula XC (O) -Y, in which X and Y are independently selected from substituted or unsubstituted C ₁ -C ₂₂ -alkyl radicals, substituted or substituted unsubstituted C ₂ -C ₁₂ -alkenyl radicals, substituted or unsubstituted C ₂ -C ₁₂ -alkynyl radicals, substituted or unsubstituted aryl radicals, substituted or unsubstituted C ₁ -C 4 -arylalkyl radicals, quaternary ammonium radicals, fungicidene radicals, radicals having organometallic complex centers.

Such compounds which can be used according to the invention and have a reactive carbonyl group (also referred to below as reactive carbonyl compounds or component A) have at least one carbonyl group as reactive group which, under the action of UV radiation, forms a linking chemical bond (for example with another molecule of the same substance, others Ingredients or the hair surface). Furthermore, according to the invention, those compounds are also included as component A in which the reactive carbonyl group is derivatized or masked in such a way that the reactivity of the carbon atom of the derivatized or masked carbonyl group is present. These derivatives are preferably condensation compounds of reactive carbonyl compounds with a) amines and their derivatives to form imines or oximes as the condensation compound b) of alcohols to form acetals or ketals as a condensation compound. Component A is preferably selected from the group formed from acetophenone, propiophenone, 2-hydroxyacetophenone, 3-hydroxyacetophenone, 4-hydroxyacetophenone, 2-hydroxypropiophenone, 3-hydroxypropylphenone, 4-hydroxypropylphenone, 2-hydroxybutyrophenone, 3-hydroxybutyrophenone, 4-hydroxybutyrophenone, 2,4-dihydroxyacetophenone, 2,5-dihydroxyacetophenone, 2,6-dihydroxyacetophenone, 2,3,4-trihydroxyacetophenone, 3,4,5-t-hydroxyacetophenone, 2,4,6-trihydroxyacetophenone, 2,4, 6-tri-methoxyacetophenone, 3,4,5-trimethoxyacetophenone, 3,4,5-tri-methoxy-acetophenone-d-ethyl ketal, 4-hydroxy-3-methoxy-acetophenone, 3,5-dimethoxy-4-hydroxyacetophenone, 4-aminoacetophenone,

Dimethylaminoacetophenone, 4-morpholinoacetophenone, 4-pyridinoacetophenone, A-imidazo-nanoacetophenone, 2-hydroxy-5-bromo-acetophenone, 4-hydroxy-3-nitroacetophenone, acetophenone-2-carboxylic acid, acetophenone-4-carboxylic acid, benzophenone,

Hydroxybenzophenone, 2-aminobenzophenone, 4,4'-dihydroxybenzophenone, 2,4-dihydroxybenzophenone, 2,4,4'-trihydroxybenzophenone, 2,3,4-trihydroxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-1-acetonaphthone, 1-hydroxybenzophenone 2-acetonaphthone, chromone, chromone-2-carboxylic acid, flavone, 3-hydroxyflavone, 3,5,7-trihydroxyflavone, 4 ', 5,7-trihydroxyflavone, 5,6,7-trihydroxyflavone, quercetin, 1-indanone, 9 Fluorenone, 3-hydroxyfluorenone, anthrone, 1,8-dihydroxyanthrone, vanillin, coniferylaldehyde, 2-methoxybenzaldehyde, 3-methoxybenzaldehyde, A-methoxybenzaldehyde, 2-ethoxybenzaldehyde, 3-ethoxybenzaldehyde, 4-ethoxybenzaldehyde, A-hydroxy-2,3 -dιmethoxy-benzaldehyde, 4-hydroxy-2,5-dimethoxybenzaldehyde, 4-hydroxy-2,6-dimethoxybenzaldehyde, 4-hydroxy-2-methylbenzaldehyde, 4-hydroxy-3-methylbenzaldehyde, A - Hydroxy-2,3-dimethyl-benzaldehyde, 4-hydroxy-2,5-dimethylbenzaldehyde, 4-hydroxy-2,6-dimethylbenzaldehyde, 4-hydroxy-3,5-dιmethoxy-benzaldehyde, 4-hydroxy -3,5-dimethyl-benzaldehyde, 3,5-dethoxy-4-hydroxybenzaldehyde, 2 , 6-Dethoxy-4-hydroxybenzaldehyde, 3-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzaldehyde, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzaldehyde, 2-ethoxy-4-hydroxybenzaldehyde, 3-ethoxy-4-hydroxybenzaldehyde , 4-ethoxy-2-hydroxy-benzaldehyde, 4-ethoxy-3-hydroxy-benzaldehyde, 2,3-dimethoxybenzaldehyde, 2,4-Dιmethoxybenzaldehyd, 2,5-Dιmethoxybenzaldehyd, 2,6-dimethoxybenzaldehyde, 3,4-Dιmethoxybenzaldehyd , 3,5-Dιmethoxybenzaldehyd, 2,3,4-Tπmethoxybenzaldehyd, 2,3,5-Tπmethoxybenzaldehyd, 2,3,6-Trιmethoxybenzaldehyd, 2,4,6-trimethoxybenzaldehyde, 2,4,5-Trιmethoxybenzaldehyd, 2.5 , 6-tri-methoxybenzaldehyde, 2-hydroxybenzaldehyde, 3-hydroxybenzaldehyde, 4-hydroxybenzaldehyde, 2,3-dihydroxybenzaldehyde, 2,4-dihydroxybenzaldehyde, 2,5-dihydroxybenzaldehyde, 2,6-dihydroxybenzaldehyde, 3,4-dihydroxybenzaldehyde, 3.5 -Dιhydroxybenzaldehyd, 2,3,4-Trιhydroxybenzaldehyd, 2,3,5-Tπhydroxybenzaldehyd, 2,3,6-Trιhydroxybenzaldehyd, 2,4,6-Trιhydroxybenzaldehyd, 2,4,5-Tnhydroxybenzaldehyd, 2,5,6-Trιhydroxybenzaldehyd , 4-hydroxy-2-methoxy benzaldehyde, 4-dimethylammobenzaldehyde, 4-dimethylaminobenzaldehyde, 4-dimethylamino-2-hydroxybenzaldehyde, A-dimethylamino-2-hydroxybenzaldehyde, 4-pyrrolyldinobenzaldehyde, 4-morpholinobenzaldehyde, 2-morphobenzaldehyde, 4-pyridobenzaldehyde, 2-methoxy- 1-naphthaldehyde, 4-methoxy-1-naphthaldehyde, 2-hydroxy-1-naphthaldehyde, 2,4-dihydroxy-1-naphthaldehyde, 4-hydroxy-3-methoxy-1-naphthaldehyde, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy 1-naphthaldehyde, 3-hydroxy-4-methoxy-1-naphthaldehyde, 2,4-dimethoxy-1-naphthaldehyde, 3,4-dimethoxy-1-naphthaldehyde, 4-hydroxy-1-naphthaldehyde, 4-dimethylamino-1-naphthaldehyde, 2-methoxycinnamaldehyde, 4-methoxycinnamaldehyde, 4- Hydroxy-3-methoxycinnamaldehyde, 3,5-dimethoxy-4-hydroxy-cinnamic aldehyde, 4-dimethylaminocinnamaldehyde, 2-dimethylaminobenzaldehyde, 2-chloro-4-dimethylaminobenzaldehyde, 4-dimethylamino-2-methylbenzaldehyde, 4-diethylamino-cinnamaldehyde, 4-dibutylaminobenzaldehyde, 4-diphenylaminobenzaldehyde, 4-dimethylamino-2-methoxybenzaldehyde, 4- (1-imidazolyl) benzaldehyde, piperonal, 2,3,6,7-tetrahydro-1H, 5L-1-benzo [ij] quinolizine-9-carboxaldehyde, 2,3,6,7-tetrahydro-8-hydroxy

1 H, 5H-benzo [ij] quinolizine-9-carboxaldehyde, N-ethylcarbazole-3-aldehyde, 2-formylmethylene-1,3,3-trimethylindoline (Fischer's aldehyde or tribasic aldehyde),

2-indolaldehyde, 3-indolaldehyde, 1-methylindole-3-aldehyde, 2-methylindole-3-aldehyde, 1-acetylindole-3-aldehyde, 3-acetylindole, 1-methyl-3-acetylindole, 2- (1 ', 3 ', 3'-trimethyl-2-indolinylidene) -acetaldehyde, 1-methylpyrrole-2-aldehyde, 1-methyl-2-acetylpyrrole, 4-pyridine aldehyde, 2-pyridine aldehyde, 3-pyridine aldehyde, 4-acetylpyridine, 2-acetylpyridine , 3-acetylpyridine, pyridoxal, quinoline-3-aldehyde, quinoline-4-aldehyde, antipyrin-4-aldehyde, furfural, 5-nitrofurfural, 2-thenoyl-trifluoro-acetone, chromon-3-aldehyde, 3- (5 ' Nitro-2'-furyl) acrolein, 3- (2'-furyl) acrolein and imidazole-2-aldehyde, 1, 3-diacetylbenzene, 1,4-diacetylbenzene, 1,3,5-triacetylbenzene, 2- Benzoyl-acetophenone, 2- (4'-methoxybenzoyl) -acetophenone, 2- (2'-furoyl) -acetophenone, 2- (2'-pyridoyl) -acetophenone and 2- (3'-pyridoyl) -acetophenone,

Benzylideneacetone, 4-hydroxybenzylideneacetone, 2-hydroxybenzylideneacetone, 4-methoxybenzylideneacetone, 4-hydroxy-3-methoxybenzylideneacetone, 4-dimethylaminobenzylideneacetone, 3,4-methylenedioxybenzylideneacetone, 4-pyrrolidinobenzylideneacetone, 4-piperidinobenzylideneacetone, 4-morpholinobenzylideneacetone, 4-diethylaminobenzylideneacetone, 3-benzylidene-2,4-pentanedione, 3- (4'-hydroxybenzylidene) -2,4-pentanedione, 3- (4'-dimethylaminobenzylidene) -2,4-pentanedione, 2-

Benzylidene cyclohexanone, 2- (4'-hydroxybenzylidene) cyclohexanone, 2- (4'-dimethylaminobenzylidene) cyclohexanone, 2-benzylidene-1, 3-cyclohexanedione, 2- (4'-hydroxybenzylidene) -1,3-cyclohexane - dione, 3- (4'-dimethylaminobenzylidene) -1,3-cyclohexanedione, 2-benzylidene-5,5-dimethyl-1,3-cyclohexanedione, 2- (4'-hydroxybenzylidene) -5,5-dimethyl-1 , 3-cyclohexanedione, 2- (4'-hydroxy-3-methoxybenzylidene) -5,5-dimethyl-1,3-cyclohexanedione, 2- (4'-dimethylaminobenzylidene) -5,5-dimethyl-1,3 cyclohexanedione, 2-benzylidenecyclopentanone, 2 '- (4-hydroxybenzylidene) cyclopentanone, 2- (4'-dimethylaminobenzylidene) -cyclopentanone,

5- (4-dimethylaminophenyl) penta-2,4-dienal, 5- (4-diethylaminophenyl) penta-2,4-dienal, 5- (4-methoxyphenyl) penta-2,4-dienal, 5- 3,4-dimethoxyphenyl) penta-2,4-dienal, 5- (2,4-dimethoxyphenyl) -penta-2,4-dienal, 5- (4-piperidinophenyl) penta-2,4-dienal, 5- 4-morpholinophenyl) penta-2,4-dienal, 5- (4-pyrrolidinophenyl) penta-2,4-dienal,

6- (4-Dimethylaminophenyl) hexa-3,5-dien-2-one, 6- (4-diethylaminophenyl) hexa-3,5-dien-2-one, 6- (4-methoxyphenyl) hexa-3,5 -dien-2-one, 6- (3,4-dimethoxyphenyl) hexa-3,5-dien-2-one, 6- (2,4-dimethoxyphenyl) hexa-3,5-dien-2-one , 6- (4-Piperidinophenyl) hexa-3,5-dien-2-one, 6- (4-morpholinophenyl) -hexa-3,5-dien-2-one, 6- (4-pyrrolidinophenyl) hexa-3 , 5-diene-2-one, 5- (4-Dimethylamino-1-naphthyl) penta-3,5-dienal, 2-nitrobenzaldehyde, 3-nitrobenzaldehyde, A-nitrobenzaldehyde, 4-methyl-3-nitrobenzaldehyde, 3-hydroxy-4-nitrobenzaldehyde, 4-hydroxy -3-nitrobenzaldehyde, 5-hydroxy-2-nitrobenzaldehyde, 2-hydroxy-5-nitrobenzaldehyde, 2-hydroxy-3-nitrobenzaldehyde, 2-fluoro-3-nitrobenzaldehyde, 3-methoxy-2-nitrobenzaldehyde, 4-chloro-3 nitrobenzaldehyde, 2-chloro-6-nitrobenzaldehyde, 5-chloro-2-nitrobenzaldehyde, 4-chloro-2-nitrobenzaldehyde, 2,4-dinitrobenzaldehyde, 2,6-dinitrobenzaldehyde, 2-hydroxy-3-methoxy-5-nitrobenzaldehyde , 4,5-dimethoxy-2-nitrobenzaldehyde, 6-nitropiperonal, 2-nitropiperonal, 5-nitrovanillin, 2,5-dinitrosalicylaldehyde, 5-bromo-3-nitrosalicylaldehyde, 3-nitro-4-formylbenzenesulfonic acid, 4-nitro 1-naphthaldehyde, 2-nitrocinnamaldehyde, 3-nitrocinnamaldehyde, 4-nitrocinnamaldehyde, 9-methyl-3-carbazolaldehyde, 9-ethyl-3-carbazolaldehyde, 3-acetylcarbazole, 3,6-diacetyl-9-ethylcarbazole, S-acetyl -θ-methylcarbazole, 1, 4-dimethyl-3-carbazolaldehyde, 1, 4,9-trimeth yl-3-carbazolaldehyd,

4-formyl-1-methylpyridinium, 2-formyl-1-methylpyridinium, 4-formyl-1-ethylpyridinium, 2-formyl-1-ethylpyridinium, 4-formyl-1-benzylpyridinium, 2-formyl-1 benzylpyridinium, 4-formyl-1,2-dimethylpyridinium, 4-formyl-1,3-dimethylpyridinium, 4-formyl-1-methylquinolinium, 2-formyl-1-methylquinolinium, 4-acetyl-1 methylpyridinium, 2-acetyl-1-methylpyridinium, 4-acetyl-1-methylquinolinium, 5-formyl-i-methylquinolinium, 6-formyl-i-methylquinolinium, 7-formyl-1-methylquinolinium, 8- Formyl-i-methylquinolinium, 5-formyl-i-ethylquinolinium, 6-formyl-1-ethylquinolinium, 7-formyl-1-ethylquinolinium, 8-formyl-1-ethylquinolinium, 5-formyl-1-benzylquinolinium, 6-formyl-i-benzylquinolinium, / -formyl-i-benzylquinolinium, 8-formyl-1-benzylquinolinium, 5-formyl-i-allylquinolinium, 6-formyl-i-allylquinolinium, 7-formyl-1 allyl-quinolinium and 8-formyl-i-allyl-quinolinium, δ-acetyl-1-methyl-quinolinium, 6-acetyl-1-methyl-quinolinium, 7-acetyl-1-methyl-quinolinium, 8-acet yl-i-methylquinolinium, 5-acetyl-1-ethylquinolinium, 6-acetyl-1-ethylquinolinium, / -acetyl-1-ethylquinolinium, 8-acetyl-1-ethylquinolinium, 5-acetyl-1-benzylquinolinium, 6-acetyl-1-benzylquinolinium, 7-acetyl-1-benzylcholinolinium, 8-acetyl-1-benzylquinolinium, 6-acetyl-1-allylquinolinium, 6-acetyl-1-allylquinolinium, 2-acetyl-1-one allylquinolinium and 8-acetyl-i-allylquinolinium, 9-formyl-10-methylacridinium, 4- (2'-formylvinyl) -1-methylpyridinium, 1, 3-dimethyl-2- (4'-formylphenyl) benzimidazolium, 1,3-dimethyl-2- (4'-formylphenyl) imidazolium, 2- (4'-formylphenyl) -3-methylbenzothiazolium, 2- (4'-acetylphenyl) -3-methylbenzothiazolium , 2- (4'-Formylphenyl) -3-methylbenzoxazolium, 2- (5'-formyl-2'-furyl) -3-methylbenzothiazolium, 2- (5'-formyl-2'-furyl) 3-methylbenzothiazolium, 2- (5'-formyl-2'-thienyl) -3-methylbenzothiazolium, 2- (3'-formylphenyl) -3-methylbenzothiazolium, 2- (4'-formyl-1-naphthyl ) -3-methylbenzothiazolium, 5-chloro-2- (4'-formylphenyl) -3-methylbenzothi azolium, 2- (4'-formylphenyl) -3,5-dimethylbenzothiazolium benzenesulfonate, p-toluenesulfonate, methanesulfonate, perchlorate, sulfate, chloride, bromide, iodide, tetrachlorozincate, methylsulfate, trifluoromethanesulfonate, tetrafluoroborate, isatin, 1-methyl-isatin, 1-allyl-isatin, 1-hydroxymethyl-isatin, 5-chloro-isatin, 5-methoxy-isatin, 5-nitro-isatin, 6-nitro-isatin, 5-sulfo -isatin, 5-carboxy-isatin, quinisatin, 1-methyl-quinisatin, and any mixtures of the above compounds. Particularly preferred methods according to the invention are characterized in that the hair treatment agent comprises at least one benzophenone derivative of the formula (I)

contains, in the

X and Y are independently selected from substituted or unsubstituted C ₁ -C ₂₂ -alkyl radicals, substituted or unsubstituted C ₂ -C ₁₂ -alkenyl radicals, substituted or unsubstituted C ₂ -C ₁₂ -alkynyl radicals, substituted or unsubstituted aryl radicals, substituted or unsubstituted CrC ^ -Arylalkylresten, quaternary ammonium radicals, Fungizidresrten, residues with organometallic complex centers.

Other photopolymerizable substances which can be used according to the invention are derived, for example, from the groups

2- (2'-hydroxyphenyl) -1,3-dimethylbenzimidazoline

2- (4'-hydroxyphenyl) -1,3-dimethylbenzimidazoline

(+) - benzhydrol-4-carboxylate ions

(-) - 1, 2-bis (4-carboxyphenyl) -1,2-bisphenyl-1,2-ethanediol (1-benzopinacol)

Tropolone and tropolone derivatives

2-Benzoyladamantane and its derivative alpha-oxoamide beta-lactams

Phenylglyoxylanmide, in particular Phenylglyoxylanmide of alpha-amino acids or their methyl esters

N-acylated alpha-amino-p-methylbutyrophenones and their derivatives beta-oxy-alpha, alpha-disubstituted-alpha-amino acid derivatives

ketoximes

2-azabicyclo [3.3.0] octan-3-carboxylate derivatives

4-Oxobutanal acetals

2-Hydroxycyclobutanon-ketals

N- (p- (2,4,6-triisopropylbenzoyl) benzoyl) -L-phenylalanine methyl ester

4-oxo-4-Phenylbutanoylamine

N-ethyl-N-isopropylphenylglyoxylamid

N, N-Diisopropylarylglyoxylamid

2-alkoxybenzophenones, especially o-isopropoxybenzophenone 2-Benzoylphenoxyacetate C (1 ') - substituted N- (2-benzoylethyl) glycine ester alpha-tetrasubstituted aryl ketone N- (2-formylphenethyl) phthalimide and its derivatives 2,4,6-trialkylphenyl ketone 2,3-dihydro-2,3- methano-1,4-naphthoquinone 3-acyl-2-thiotetrahydro-1,3-thiazines alpha, beta-unsaturated ketones

Further possible ingredients of the hair treatment compositions are described in detail below.

The method of the invention requires the application of UV radiation to hair treated with a hair treatment agent. This can be done with commercially available, so-called "UV lamps", with, for example, mercury vapor lamps or fluorescent lamps ("black light lamps") are suitable. With particular preference, however, special devices are used in the process according to the invention, which irradiate the hair to be treated and also have a secondary benefit. These devices are a further subject of the present invention.

Another object of the present invention is a hot air device, in particular a hair dryer, comprising an electric heater and a fan for generating a hot air flow, wherein in the hot air device at least one UV radiation source is integrated.

Hot air devices with heating and blower for drying or heat treatment of hair or for drying wet hands after a washing process or for heating a room (fan heater) are known in various designs, eg. B. as a so-called Fön ^® (trademark of the AEG) (hand dandruff / drying and styling of hair) or by EP 0176003 B1 as a drying hood (Dauerwellung or dyeing / bleaching of hair) or by EP 0 695 521 B1 as a device in open construction (permanent undulation or dyeing / bleaching of hair). Devices of this type generally work reliably and fulfill their intended purpose.

Preferred hot air devices according to the invention are characterized in that they comprise a plurality of heating and blowing stages in order to vary the strength of the fan air flow and / or the heating power.

For the purposes of the present invention, "hot air device" may also be a cold air blower, the cold air flow of which is heated by the radiant heat of the UV radiation sources contained in the present invention UV radiation sources as electric radiator.

In this way, depending on the desired application temperature and duration and depending on the desired radiation power, the application of UV radiation can be supported by hot air or the heat development of the radiation sources can be moderated by cold air.

Hair dryers regularly have a hot air blower with multiple heating and blowing levels. On the one hand, this allows the intensity of the fan air flow to be varied. On the other hand, the heating power can be changed, in particular, a cold air stage is provided in which the heating power is greatly reduced or completely switched off.

Conventional hairdryers can be improved in terms of operation and adjustment of the various power levels. On the one hand, the various power levels can not be approached in any order or driven in any combination with each other. On the other hand, it is often necessary to set the different power levels with different actuators, which requires embracing and often also optically detecting the various actuators.

In hot air devices or heat treatment devices which are preferred according to the invention, it is possible (for example by means of a circuit connected in series with a heating resistor) to fine-tune the temperature of the discharged hot air as a function of a user-selectable desired value. For this purpose, the temperature of the discharged hot air is detected by means of a temperature sensor and compared with the selected setpoint. The heating power required to comply with the temperature setpoint is realized by a so-called pulse packet control. The output by the heating resistor heating power is achieved by pulse-like driving a switch, such as a triac, for the heating element. The ratio of the pulse duration at which the heating is switched on to the pulse duration at which the heating is switched off determines the effective heating power of the heating resistor. This ratio can be varied as desired between zero and the maximum heating power, whereby a sensitive temperature control of the heat treatment device is possible.

Modern heat treatment equipment, such as hairdryers, have comparatively high powers that can reach 1500 W or even 2000 watts to achieve fast drying. If such high powers are switched on and off in quick succession, this leads to an undesirable voltage feedback on the power grid. This is regulated by the so-called Flickernorm (DIN EN 61000-3-3). In this case, with increasing switched power greater minimum distances between individual switching operations are required. With a power of about 1300 watts to be switched, for example, a switching time of more than 2.5 seconds is required. Such switching times for the heating of a heat treatment device are In practice, however, disadvantageous because they would exceed the time constant of the heating by a multiple and thus lead to strong temperature fluctuations of the blow-out. Only at much lower switching to the heating services, the switching times allowed by the Flickernorm would be so small that a sensitive temperature control would be possible.

Here, according to the invention, particularly preferred hair dryers are equipped with an energy converter, in particular a hot air blower, and a control device for controlling the power of the energy converter, wherein the control device has an actuating element which can be brought into a plurality of switch positions along or around a movement axis, each one of a power stage correspond to the energy converter, wherein the actuating element is mounted multi-axially movable and regardless of its switching position with respect to a movement axis about one or along a further axis of movement in a further switching position, which corresponds to a further power level, can be brought. Still further preferred hot air blower of this type are characterized in that the actuating element is biased with respect to a movement axis by means of a biasing device monostable in a basic position.

The present invention in the hair treatment device (s) UV radiation source (s) is / are preferably arranged so that the UV radiation is emitted in the direction of the hot air stream. Preferred warm air devices according to the invention are characterized in that the radiation direction of the UV radiation source (s) substantially coincides with the direction of the hot air flow.

As a radiation source (s), which is / are integrated in the hot air device according to the invention, all UV radiation sources mentioned above are suitable. Particular preference is given to those radiation sources which have a radiation power which can be used in the method according to the invention. Hot air units according to the invention are preferred in which the radiant power of the UV radiation source (s) is 0.1 to 1000 mW, preferably 0.25 to 750 mW, particularly preferably 0.5 to 500 mW and in particular 0.1 to 100 mW.

Hot air units according to the invention are furthermore preferred in which the average irradiance of the UV radiation source (s), measured at a distance of 20 mm, is 0.1 to 100 mW / cm ² , preferably 0.25 to 75 mW / cm ² , particularly preferably 0, 5 to 50 mW / cm ² and especially 0.1 to 100 mW / cm ² .

So-called UV diodes have proven to be particularly suitable in the context of the present invention. Warm air devices according to the invention comprising as UV radiation source one or more UV diodes, preferred UV diodes are selected from UV LED of wavelength 370-375 nm, preferably with a power of 1 mW, UV LED wavelength 380-385 nm, preferably with a power of 3 mW, UV LED of wavelength 390-395 nm, preferably with a power 5 mW, 400 nm wavelength UV LED, preferably with a power of 5 mW, are preferred embodiments of the present invention.

Warm air devices according to the invention can be produced as domestic appliances (for example hand-held hair dryer, styling bar, home dressing hood). But they can also be produced as devices for professional use in hairdressing salons (drying hood). Hot air devices that are designed as a dry hood and hot air devices that are designed as Handhaartrockner are preferred embodiments of the present invention.

With particular preference, the hot air devices according to the invention can be equipped with an integrated, catalytic odor filter, wherein either the device components fan / heater or even the fan additionally used or equipped with air-cleaning functionality. Catalysts intended to decompose odors in the air require a high working temperature and high air throughput for efficiency. Both conditions are already given, for example, in a hair dryer, a dryer hood, a "Climazon Millennium", a hand dryer or a fan heater in an ideal way. The working temperature of the catalyst is ensured by thermal coupling with the heating element. Preferably, the heating wire is coated directly with the catalytically active substance. But it is also conceivable that a separate catalyst filter element is mounted in sufficient proximity to the radiator to ensure the operating temperature. It is also possible to equip this element with its own heating, if this results in constructive advantages. In this case, the resulting waste heat is used in addition to heating the air flow. The required air flow is automatically guaranteed, as the filter element is integrated directly into the air flow path of the device. The combination of such a filter with a hairdressing hot air device (hair dryer, dryer hood, "Climazon Millenium", hand dryer) offers the barber a cheap and practical way to improve the air in his salon.

In a drying hood with a recirculation device, in which about 60% of the amount of air is returned to the drying hood (DE 20 10 075 A and EP 0 176 003 B1), a catalytic odor filter additionally has a particularly advantageous effect that one under the dryer hood Sitting person is constantly exposed to an odor filtered room air.

Another object of the present invention is an agent which can be used particularly well in the process according to the invention and there leads to further increased advantages. Another object of the present invention is an agent for the treatment of keratinic fibers, in particular of human hair, containing - based on its weight - 0.01 to 10 wt .-%, preferably 0.025 to 5 wt .-%, more preferably 0.05 up to 2.5% by weight and in particular 0.1 to 1% by weight of at least one benzophenone derivative of the formula (I)

in the

X and Y are independently selected from substituted or unsubstituted C ₁ -C ₂₂ -alkyl radicals, substituted or unsubstituted C ₂ -C ₁₂ -alkenyl radicals, substituted or unsubstituted C ₂ -C ₁₂ -alkynyl radicals, substituted or unsubstituted aryl radicals, substituted or unsubstituted CVC ^ -Arylalkylresten, quaternary ammonium radicals, Fungizidresrten, residues with organometallic complex centers.

The agents of the invention act on the hair surface and lead in the process according to the invention to an improved conditioning effect on the treated hair. This care effect can be increased by the use of other ingredients. For example, it is possible to incorporate cationic surfactants in the compositions of the invention in addition to the above substance (s). A preferred hair treatment agent according to the invention is characterized in that it additionally contains cationic surfactant (s), preferably in amounts of from 0.5 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 10% by weight and in particular from 1.5 to 7.5 wt .-%, each based on the total agent contains.

Cationic surfactants of the quaternary ammonium compound type, the esterquats and the amidoamines can be used according to the invention. Preferred quaternary ammonium compounds are ammonium halides, in particular chlorides and bromides, such as alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides and trialkylmethylammonium chlorides, eg. Cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylbenzylammonium chloride and tricetylmethylammonium chloride, as well as the imidazolium compounds known under the INCI names Quaternium-27 and Quaternium-83. The long alkyl chains of the above-mentioned surfactants preferably have 10 to 18 carbon atoms.

According to the invention, preference is given to using QAV with behenyl radicals, in particular those which have the name: behentrimonium chloride or bromide (docosanyltrimethylammonium chloride or Bromide) known substances. Other preferred QAV's have at least two behenyl residues, with QAV being particularly preferred, which are two behenyl residues on an imidazolinium backbone. Commercially obtainable, these substances are, for example, under the names Genamin ^® KDMP (Clariant) and Crodazosoft ^® DBQ (Crodauza).

Esterquats are known substances which contain both at least one ester function and at least one quaternary ammonium group as a structural element. Preferred esterquats are quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with triethanolamine, quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with diethanolalkylamines and quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with 1,2-dihydroxypropyldialkylamines. Such products are marketed under the trade names Stepantex® ^®, ^® and Dehyquart® Armocare® ^®. The products Armocare ^® VGH-70, a N ₁ N-bis (2-palmitoyloxyethyl) dimethylammonium chloride, as well as Dehyquart ^® F-75, Dehyquart ^® C-4046, Dehyquart ^® L80 and Dehyquart ^® AU-35 are examples of such esterquats.

The alkylamidoamines are usually prepared by amidation of natural or synthetic fatty acids and fatty acid cuts with dialkylaminoamines. An inventively particularly suitable compound from this group is that available under the name Tegoamid ^® S 18 commercially stearamidopropyl dimethylamine.

Further care substances which may advantageously be contained in the compositions according to the invention are fatty substances or cosmetic oil bodies. Hair-treatment compositions according to the invention which additionally comprise fatty substance (s), preferably in amounts of from 0.1 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.2 to 15% by weight and in particular from 0.3 to 10% by weight, are preferred. %, in each case based on the total mean.

In hair treatment compositions preferred according to the invention, the fatty substances are selected from fatty acids, fatty alcohols, natural and synthetic waxes and natural and synthetic cosmetic oil components.

As fatty acids (D1) it is possible to use linear and / or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated fatty acids having 6 to 30 carbon atoms. Preference is given to fatty acids having 10 to 22 carbon atoms. Among these were, for example, to name the isostearic as the commercial products Emersol ^® 871 and Emersol ^® 875, and isopalmitic acids such as the commercial product Edenor ^® IP 95, and all other products sold under the trade names Edenor ^® (Cognis) fatty acids. Further typical examples of such fatty acids are caproic, caprylic, 2-ethylhexanoic, capric, lauric, isotridecanoic, myristic, palmitic, palmitoleic, stearic, isostearic, oleic, elaidic, petroselic, linoleic, linolenic as well as their technical mixtures, for example in the pressure splitting of natural fats and oils, in the oxidation of aldehydes from Roelen's oxo synthesis or the dimerization of unsaturated fatty acids. Particularly preferred are usually the fatty acid cuttings obtainable from coconut oil or palm oil; In particular, the use of stearic acid is usually preferred.

The amount used is 0.1 - 15 wt.%, Based on the total mean. The amount is preferably 0.2-10% by weight, very particular preference being given to using amounts of 0.5-4% by weight.

As fatty alcohols (D2) it is possible to use saturated, mono- or polyunsaturated, branched or unbranched fatty alcohols with C ₆ -C ₃₀ -, preferably C ₁₀ -C ₂₂ -and very particularly preferably C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ -carbon atoms. Decanols, octanols, dodecadienol, decadienol, oleyl alcohol, eruca alcohol, ricinoleic alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, caprylic alcohol, capric alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol are, for example, decanol, octanolol, dodecadienol, decadienol , as well as their Guerbet alcohols, this list should have exemplary and non-limiting character. However, the fatty alcohols are derived from preferably natural fatty acids, which can usually be based on recovery from the esters of fatty acids by reduction. Also usable according to the invention are those fatty alcohol cuts which are produced by reduction of naturally occurring triglycerides such as beef tallow, palm oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil and linseed oil or fatty acid esters formed from their transesterification products with corresponding alcohols, and thus represent a mixture of different fatty alcohols. Such substances are, for example, under the names Stenol ^® such as Stenol ^® 1618 or Lanette ^® such as Lanette ^® O or Lorol ^®, for example, Lorol ^® C8, Lorol C14 ^®, Lorol C18 ^®, ^® Lorol C8-18, HD Ocenol ^®, Crodacol ^® such as Crodacol ^® CS, Novol ^®, Eutanol ^® G, Guerbitol ^® 16, Guerbitol ^® 18, Guerbitol ^® 20, Isofol ^® 12, Isofol ^® 16, Isofol ^® 24, Isofol ^® 36, Isocarb ^® 12, Isocarb ^® 16 or Isocarb® ^® 24 available for purchase. Of course, the invention also wool wax alcohols, as are commercially available, for example under the names of Corona ^®, White Swan ^®, Coronet ^® or Fluilan ^® can be used. The fatty alcohols are preferably used in amounts of from 0.1 to 10% by weight, based on the total preparation, preferably in amounts of from 0.2 to 5% by weight.

As natural or synthetic waxes (D3) it is possible according to the invention to use solid paraffins or isoparaffins, carnauba waxes, beeswaxes, candelilla waxes, ozokerites, ceresin, spermaceti, sunflower wax, fruit waxes such as, for example, apple wax or citrus wax, microwaxes of PE or PP. Such waxes are available, for example, from Kahl & Co., Trittau. The amount used is 0.1-10% by weight, based on the total agent, preferably 0.2-8% by weight and more preferably 0.4-5% by weight, based on the total agent.

The natural and synthetic cosmetic oil bodies (D4) which can increase the action of the active ingredient complex (A) according to the invention include, for example: vegetable oils. Examples of such oils are sunflower oil, olive oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, jojoba oil, orange oil, wheat germ oil, peach kernel oil and the liquid portions of coconut oil. Also suitable, however, are other triglyceride oils such as the liquid portions of beef tallow as well as synthetic triglyceride oils. liquid paraffin oils, isoparaffin oils and synthetic hydrocarbons and di-n-alkyl ethers having a total of from 12 to 36 carbon atoms, in particular 12 to 24 carbon atoms, such as di-n-octyl ether, di-n-decyl ether, di-n-nonyl ether , Di-n-undecyl ether, di-n-dodecyl ether, n-hexyl n-octyl ether, n-octyl n-decyl ether, n-decyl n-undecyl ether, n-undecyl n-dodecyl ether and n-hexyl-n Undecyl ether and di-tert-butyl ether, di-iso-pentyl ether, di-3-ethyldecyl ether, tert-butyl-n-octyl ether, iso-pentyl-n-octyl ether and 2-methyl-pentyl-n-octyl ether. The compounds are available as commercial products 1, 3-di- (2-ethyl-hexyl) - cyclohexane (Cetiol ^® S), and di-n-octyl ether (Cetiol ^® OE) may be preferred. Esteröle. Ester oils are to be understood as meaning the esters of C ₆ - C ₃₀ fatty acids with C ₂ - C ₃₀ fatty alcohols. The monoesters of the fatty acids with alcohols having 2 to 24 carbon atoms are preferred. Examples of fatty acid components used in the esters are caproic, caprylic, 2-ethylhexanoic, capric, lauric, isotridecanoic, myristic, palmitic, palmitoleic, stearic, isostearic, oleic, elaidic, petroselic, linoleic, linolenic Behenic acid and erucic acid and their technical mixtures which are obtained, for example, in the pressure splitting of natural fats and oils, in the oxidation of aldehydes from Roelen's oxosynthesis or the dimerization of unsaturated fatty acids. Examples of the fatty alcohol components in the ester oils are isopropyl alcohol, caproic alcohol, capryl alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, linolyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, elaeostearyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, Gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol and brassidyl alcohol and their technical mixtures, for example, in the high-pressure hydrogenation of technical methyl esters based on fats and oils or aldehydes from the Roelen oxo synthesis and as a monomer fraction in the dimerization of unsaturated fatty alcohols incurred. According to the invention particularly preferably isopropyl myristate (IPM Rilanit ^®), isononanoic acid C16-18 alkyl ester (Cetiol ^® SN), 2-ethylhexyl palmitate (Cegesoft ^® 24), stearic acid-2-ethylhexyl ester (Cetiol ^® 868), cetyl oleate, glycerol tricaprylate, Kokosfettalkohol- caprate / caprylate (Cetiol ^® LC), n-butyl stearate, oleyl erucate (Cetiol ^® J 600), isopropyl palmitate (IPP Rilanit ^®), oleyl Oleate (Cetiol ^®), hexyl laurate (Cetiol ^® A), di-n-butyl adipate (Cetiol ^® B), myristyl myristate (Cetiol ^® MM), Cetearyl Isononanoate (Cetiol ^® SN), decyl oleate (Cetiol ^® V).

Dicarboxylic acid esters such as di-n-butyl adipate, di- (2-ethylhexyl) adipate, di- (2-ethylhexyl) succinate and di-isotridecyl acelate, and diol esters such as ethylene glycol dioleate, ethylene glycol diisotridecanoate, propylene glycol di (2- ethylhexanoate), propylene glycol diisostearate,

Propylene glycol di-pelargonat, butanediol di-isostearate, Neopentylglykoldicaprylat, symmetrical, asymmetric or cyclic esters of carbonic acid with fatty alcohols, for example described in DE-OS 197 56 454, glycerol carbonate or

Dicaprylyl carbonate (Cetiol ^® CC),

Trifatty acid esters of saturated and / or unsaturated linear and / or branched

Fatty acids with glycerine,

Fatty acid partial glycerides, which are monoglycerides, diglycerides and their technical

Mixtures. With the use of technical products production reasons may still contain small amounts of triglycerides. The partial glycerides preferably follow the

Formula (D4-I),

CH ₂ O (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _m R ¹

I CHO (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _n R ² (D4-I)

I CH ₂ O (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _q R ³

in which R ¹ , R ² and R ³ are each independently hydrogen or a linear or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22, preferably 12 to 18, carbon atoms, with the proviso that at least one of these groups represents a Acyl radical and at least one of these groups is hydrogen. The sum (m + n + q) is 0 or numbers from 1 to 100, preferably 0 or 5 to 25. Preferably, R ^{1 is} an acyl radical and R ² and R ^{3 are} hydrogen and the sum (m + n + q) is 0. Typical examples are mono- and / or diglycerides based on caproic, caprylic, 2-ethylhexanoic, capric, lauric, isotridecanoic, myristic, palmitic, palmitic, stearic, isostearic, oleic, elaidic, petroselic, linoleic, linolenic , Elaeostearic acid, arachidic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid and erucic acid and their technical mixtures. Preferably, oleic acid monoglycerides are used.

The amount used of natural and synthetic cosmetic oil bodies in the compositions according to the invention is usually 0.1 to 20% by weight, based on the total composition, preferably 0.2 to 10% by weight, and in particular 0.25 to 7.5% by weight .-%. As further advantageous, it has been shown that polymers (G) are contained as care substances in the inventive compositions. In a preferred embodiment, therefore, polymers are added to the compositions used according to the invention, both cationic, anionic, amphoteric and nonionic polymers having proven effective. Preferred hair treatment compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they additionally comprise polymer (s), preferably nonionic and / or cationic polymer (s), preferably amounts of from 0.1 to 20% by weight, more preferably of 0, 2 to 15 wt .-% and in particular from 0.3 to 10 wt .-%, each based on the total agent included.

Cationic or amphoteric polymers are to be understood as meaning polymers which have a group in the main and / or side chain which may be "temporary" or "permanent" cationic. According to the invention, "permanently cationic" refers to those polymers which have a cationic group, irrespective of the pH of the agent. These are usually polymers containing a quaternary nitrogen atom, for example in the form of an ammonium group. Preferred cationic groups are quaternary ammonium groups. In particular, those polymers in which the quaternary ammonium group is bonded via a C 1-4 hydrocarbon group to a polymer main chain constructed from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or derivatives thereof have proven to be particularly suitable.

Homopolymers of the general formula (G1-I),

R ¹

I - [CH ₂ -C-] _n X ^" (G1-I)

I CO-O- (CH ₂ ) _m -N ⁺ R ² R ³ R ⁴

in which R ¹ = -H or -CH ₃ , R ² , R ³ and R ^{4 are} independently selected from C 1-4 -alkyl, -alkenyl or -hydroxyalkyl groups, m = 1, 2, 3 or 4, n is a natural number and X- is a physiologically acceptable organic or inorganic anion, as well as copolymers consisting essentially of the monomer units listed in formula (G1-I) and nonionic monomer units, are particularly preferred cationic polymers. In the context of these polymers, preference is given to those according to the invention for which at least one of the following conditions applies:

R ¹ is a methyl group

R ² , R ³ and R ⁴ are methyl groups m has the value 2. Suitable physiologically tolerated counterions X ^" are, for example, halide ions, sulfate ions, phosphate ions, methosulfate ions and organic ions such as lactate, citrate, tartrate and acetate ions, preference being given to halide ions, in particular chloride.

A particularly suitable homopolymer is, if desired, crosslinked, PolyCmethacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammoniumchlorid) with the INCI name Polyquaternium- 37. Such products are, for example, under the names Rheocare ^® CTH (Cosmetic Rheologies) and Synthalen ^® CR (Ethnichem) commercially available. If desired, the crosslinking can be carried out with the aid of poly olefinically unsaturated compounds, for example divinylbenzene, tetraallyloxyethane, methylenebisacrylamide, diallyl ether, polyallylpolyglyceryl ethers, or allyl ethers of sugars or sugar derivatives such as erythritol, pentaerythritol, arabitol, mannitol, sorbitol, sucrose or glucose. Methylenebisacrylamide is a preferred crosslinking agent.

The homopolymer is preferably used in the form of a nonaqueous polymer dispersion which should not have a polymer content of less than 30% by weight. Such polymer dispersions are available under the names Salcare ^® SC 95 (about 50% polymer content, additional components: mineral oil (INCI name: Mineral Oil) and tridecyl-polyoxypropylene-polyoxyethylene-ether (INCI name: PPG-1 trideceth-6) ) and Salcare ^® SC 96 (about 50% polymer content, additional components: mixture of diesters of propylene glycol with a mixture of caprylic and capric acid (INCI name: propylene glycol Dicaprylate / Dicaprate) and tridecyl polyoxypropylene-polyoxyethylene-ether (INCI Designation: PPG-1-trideceth-6)) are commercially available.

Copolymers with monomer units of the formula (G1-I) as the non-ionic monomer, preferably acrylamide, methacrylamide, acrylic acid C _1-4 alkyl esters and methacrylic acid C _1-4 alkyl ester. Among these nonionic monomers, the acrylamide is particularly preferred. These copolymers can also be crosslinked, as described above in the case of the homopolymers. A copolymer preferred according to the invention is the crosslinked acrylamide-methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer. Such copolymers in which the monomers are present in a weight ratio of about 20:80, commercially available as about 50% non-aqueous polymer dispersion under the name Salcare ^® SC 92nd

Further preferred cationic polymers are, for example

- Quaternized cellulose derivatives, such as those under the names Celquat ^® and Polymer JR ^® commercially available. The compounds Celquat ^® H 100, Celquat L 200 and Polymer JR ^® ^® 400 are preferred quaternized cellulose derivatives - cationic alkyl polyglycosides according to DE-PS 44 13 686, cationized honey, for example the commercial product Honeyquat ^® 50, cationic guar derivatives, in particular those sold under the tradename Cosmedia ^® guar and Jaguar ^® products, polymeric dimethyldiallylammonium salts and their copolymers with esters and Amides of

Acrylic acid and methacrylic acid. The under the names Merquat ^® 100

(Poly (dimethyldiallylammonium chloride)) and Merquat ^® 550 (dimethyldiallylammonium chloride

Acrylamide copolymer) commercially available products are examples of such cationic ones

polymers

Copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone with quaternized derivatives of dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate and methacrylate, such as vinylpyrrolidone quaternized with diethyl sulfate

Dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymers. Such compounds are among the

Designations Gafquat ^® 734 and Gafquat ^® 755 commercially available,

Vinylpyrrolidone-vinylimidazolium methochloride copolymers as described by the names

Luviquat ^® FC 370, FC 550, FC 905 and HM 552, quaternized polyvinyl alcohol, as well as the polymers known under the names Polyquaternium 2, Polyquaternium 17, Polyquaternium 18 and Polyquaternium 27 with quaternary nitrogen atoms in the

Polymer backbone.

Can be used as cationic polymers (. B. commercial product, Quatrisoft ^® LM 200) under the designations Polyquaternium-24, known polymers. Also usable in the invention are the copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone, such as the commercial products Copolymer 845 (manufactured by ISP), Gaffix ^® VC 713 (manufactured by ISP), Gafquat ^® ASCP 1011, Gafquat ^® HS 110, Luviquat ^® 8155 and Luviquat ^® MS 370 available are.

Other cationic polymers which can be used in the agents according to the invention are the so-called "temporary cationic" polymers. These polymers usually contain an amino group which, at certain pH values, is present as quaternary ammonium group and thus cationic. Preferably, for example, are chitosan and its derivatives, such as 101 are freely available commercially, for example under the trade names Hydagen CMF ^®, Hydagen HCMF ^®, Kytamer ^® PC and Chitolam ^® NB /.

According to the invention preferred cationic polymers are cationic cellulose derivatives and chitosan and its derivatives, in particular the commercial products Polymer ^® JR 400, Hydagen ^® HCMF and Kytamer ^® PC, cationic guar derivatives, cationic honey derivatives, in particular the commercial product Honeyquat ^® 50, cationic Alkylpolyglycodside according to DE-PS 44 13 686 and polymers of the type Polyquaternium-37. Furthermore, cationized protein hydrolyzates are to be counted among the cationic polymers, wherein the underlying protein hydrolyzate from the animal, for example from collagen, milk or keratin, from the plant, for example from wheat, corn, rice, potatoes, soy or almonds, marine life forms, for example from fish collagen or algae, or biotechnologically derived protein hydrolysates. The protein hydrolyzates on which the cationic derivatives according to the invention are based can be obtained from the corresponding proteins by chemical, in particular alkaline or acid hydrolysis, by enzymatic hydrolysis and / or a combination of both types of hydrolysis. The hydrolysis of proteins usually results in a protein hydrolyzate having a molecular weight distribution of about 100 daltons up to several thousand daltons. Preference is given to those cationic protein hydrolyzates whose underlying protein content has a molecular weight of 100 to 25,000 daltons, preferably 250 to 5000 daltons. Furthermore, cationic protein hydrolyzates are to be understood as meaning quaternized amino acids and mixtures thereof. The quaternization of the protein hydrolyzates or amino acids is often carried out using quaternary ammonium salts such as N, N-dimethyl-N- (n-alkyl) -N- (2-hydroxy-3-chloro-n-propyl) ammonium halides. Furthermore, the cationic protein hydrolysates may also be further derivatized. As typical examples of the cationic protein hydrolysates and derivatives according to the invention, those mentioned under the INCI names in the "International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook", (seventh edition 1997, The Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association 1101 17 ^th Street, NW, Suite 300 Cocodimium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimopnium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Hair Keratin, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Hydroxypropyl Arginine Lauryl / Myristyl Ether HCl, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Gelatin, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Casein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Collagen, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Conchio Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Keratin, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Rice Bran Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein / Siloxysilicate, Laurdimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Laurdimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Laurdimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein / Siloxysilicate, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Steartrimonium Hydroxyethyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Quaternium-76 Hydrolyzed Collagen, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Collagen, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Keratin, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Milk Protein, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein.

Very particular preference is given to the cationic protein hydrolysates and derivatives based on plants.

In addition to cationic polymers or in their place, the agents according to the invention can also contain amphoteric polymers. These additionally have at least one negatively charged group in the molecule and are also referred to as zwitterionic polymers. In the context of the present invention, preferably usable zwitterionic polymers are composed essentially together

A) monomers with quaternary ammonium groups of the general formula (Z-I),

R ¹ -CH = CR ² -CO-Z- (C _n H _2n ) -N ( ⁺ ) R ³ R ⁴ R ⁵ A 1 ( ^{Z "} ')

In the R ¹ and R ² independently of one another are hydrogen or a methyl group and R, R ^ and R ^ independently represent alkyl groups having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, Z is an NH group or an oxygen atom, n is an integer of 2 to 5 and A ^ ^" ) is the anion of an organic or inorganic acid

and

B) monomeric carboxylic acids of the general formula (Z-II),

R ⁶ -CH = CR ⁷ -COOH (II)

in which R ⁶ and R ^{7 are} independently hydrogen or methyl groups.

Suitable starting monomers are, for. Dimethylaminoethylacrylamide,

Dimethylaminoethylmethacrylamide, dimethylaminopropylacrylamide,

Dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide and diethylaminoethylacrylamide when Z is an NH group or dimethylaminoethyl acrylate, dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate and diethylaminoethyl acrylate when Z is an oxygen atom.

The monomers containing a tertiary amino group are then quaternized in a known manner, methyl chloride, dimethyl sulfate or diethyl sulfate being particularly suitable as alkylating reagents. The quaternization reaction can be carried out in aqueous solution or in the solvent.

Advantageously, those monomers of formula (ZI) are used which are derivatives of acrylamide or methacrylamide. Preference is furthermore given to those monomers which contain halide, methoxysulfate or ethoxysulfate ions as counterions. Also preferred are those monomers of the formula (ZI) in which R ³ , R ⁴ and R ^{5 are} methyl groups.

The acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride is a most preferred monomer of formula (Z-I).

Suitable monomeric carboxylic acids of the formula (Z-II) are acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid and 2-methylcrotonic acid. Preference is given to using acrylic or methacrylic acid, in particular acrylic acid.

The zwitterionic polymers which can be used according to the invention are prepared from monomers of the formulas (Z-I) and (Z-II) by polymerization processes known per se. The polymerization can be carried out either in aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic solution. The alcohols used are alcohols having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, preferably isopropanol, which simultaneously serve as polymerization regulators. However, other components than regulators may also be added to the monomer solution, eg. For example, formic acid or mercaptans, such as thioethanol and thioglycolic acid. The initiation of the polymerization takes place with the aid of free-radical-forming substances. For this purpose, redox systems and / or thermally decomposing radical formers of the azo compound type, such. As azoisobutyronitrile, azo-bis (cyanopentanoic) or azo-bis (amidinopropane) dihydrochloride can be used. As redox systems are z. B. combinations of hydrogen peroxide, potassium or ammonium peroxodisulfate and tertiary butyl hydroperoxide with sodium sulfite, sodium dithionite or hydroxylamine hydrochloride as a reduction component.

The polymerization can be carried out isothermally or under adiabatic conditions, wherein depending on the concentration ratios by the heat of polymerization released, the temperature range for the course of the reaction between 20 and 200 ⁰ C may vary, and the reaction optionally under autogenous pressure must be performed. Preferably, the reaction temperature is between 20 and 100 ⁰ C.

The pH during the copolymerization may vary within a wide range. Advantageously, polymerization is carried out at low pH values; however, pH values above the neutral point are also possible. After the polymerization is treated with an aqueous base, for. As sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide or ammonia, to a pH between 5 and 10, preferably 6 to 8 set. Further details of the polymerization process can be found in the examples.

Be particularly effective, such polymers have been found in which the monomers of the formula (Z-I) were present in excess over the monomers of formula (Z-II). It is therefore preferred according to the invention to use those polymers which consist of monomers of the formula (ZI) and the monomers of the formula (Z-II) in a molar ratio of 60:40 to 95: 5, in particular from 75:25 to 95: 5 , consist.

The cationic or amphoteric polymers are preferably contained in the agents according to the invention in amounts of from 0.05 to 10% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.1 to 5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.

The anionic polymers (G2) are anionic polymers which have carboxylate and / or sulfonate groups. Examples of anionic monomers from which such polymers may consist are acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, maleic anhydride and 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid. The acidic groups may be wholly or partly present as sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium salt. Preferred monomers are 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and acrylic acid.

Anionic polymers which contain 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid as the sole or co-monomer can be found to be particularly effective, it being possible for all or some of the sulfonic acid group to be present as sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium salt ,

More preferably, the homopolymer of 2-acrylamido-2-methyl propane sulfonic acid, which is available for example under the name Rheothik ^® 11-80 is commercially.

Within this embodiment, it may be preferable to use copolymers of at least one anionic monomer and at least one nonionic monomer. With regard to the anionic monomers, reference is made to the substances listed above. preferred Nonionic monomers are acrylamide, methacrylamide, acrylic acid esters, methacrylic acid esters, vinylpyrrolidone, vinyl ethers and vinyl esters.

Preferred anionic copolymers are acrylic acid-acrylamide copolymers and in particular polyacrylamide copolymers with sulfonic acid-containing monomers. A particularly preferred anionic copolymer consists of 70 to 55 mol% of acrylamide and 30 to 45 mol% of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, wherein the sulfonic acid group is wholly or partly in the form of sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium Salt is present. This copolymer can also be crosslinked, with preference being given to using crosslinking agents as polyolefinically unsaturated compounds such as tetraallyloxyethane, allylsucrose, allylpentaerythritol and methylenebisacrylamide. Such a polymer is contained in the commercial product Sepigel ^® 305 from SEPPIC. The use of this compound, which in addition to the polymer component contains a hydrocarbon mixture (C ₁₃ -C ₁₄ isoparaffin) and a nonionic emulsifier (laureth-7), has proved to be particularly advantageous within the scope of the teaching according to the invention.

Also sold under the name Simulgel ^® 600 as a compound with isohexadecane and polysorbate-80 Natriumacryloyldimethyltaurat copolymers have proved to be particularly effective according to the invention.

Likewise preferred anionic homopolymers are uncrosslinked and crosslinked polyacrylic acids. Allyl ethers of pentaerythritol, sucrose and propylene may be preferred crosslinking agents. Such compounds are for example available under the trademark Carbopol ^® commercially.

Copolymers of maleic anhydride and methyl vinyl ether, especially those with crosslinks, are also color-retaining polymers. A cross-linked with 1, 9-Decadiene MAI einsäure-methyl vinyl ether copolymer is available under the name Stabileze® ^® QM.

Furthermore, amphoteric polymers (G3) can be used as polymers for increasing the activity of the active ingredient complex (A) according to the invention. The term amphoteric polymers includes both those polymers which contain in the molecule both free amino groups and free -COOH or SO ₃ H groups and are capable of forming internal salts, as well as zwitterionic polymers which in the molecule have quaternary ammonium groups and -COO ^' or -SO ₃ ^' groups, and those polymers comprising -COOH or SO ₃ H groups and quaternary ammonium groups.

An example of the present invention amphopolymer suitable is that available under the name Amphomer ^® acrylic resin which is a copolymer of tert-butylaminoethyl methacrylate, N- (1, 1, 3,3-tetramethylbutyl) acrylamide and two or more monomers from the group of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid and their simple esters.

Preferably used amphoteric polymers are those polymers which are composed essentially

(a) monomers having quaternary ammonium groups of the general formula (G3-I),

R ¹ -CH = CR ² -CO-Z- (C _n H _2n ) -N ⁽⁺⁾ R ³ R ⁴ R ⁵ A ⁽⁾ (G ³ -I)

in which R ¹ and R ² independently of one another represent hydrogen or a methyl group and R ³ , R ⁴ and R ⁵ independently of one another represent alkyl groups having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, Z represents an NH 4

A group or an oxygen atom, n is an integer from 2 to 5 and A is the anion of an organic or inorganic acid, and

(b) monomeric carboxylic acids of the general formula (G3-II),

R ⁶ -CH = CR ⁷ -COOH (G3-II)

in which R ⁶ and R ^{7 are} independently hydrogen or methyl groups.

These compounds can be used both directly and in salt form, which is obtained by neutralization of the polymers, for example with an alkali metal hydroxide, according to the invention. Very particular preference is given to those polymers in which monomers of the type (a) are used in which R ³ , R ⁴ and R ^{5 are} methyl groups, Z is an NH group and A ^{w is} a halide, methoxysulfate or ethoxysulfate ion ; Acrylamidopropyl trimethyl ammonium chloride is a particularly preferred monomer (a). Acrylic acid is preferably used as monomer (b) for the stated polymers.

In another embodiment, the agents according to the invention may contain nonionic polymers (G4).

Suitable nonionic polymers are, for example:

Vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl ester copolymers, as sold, for example, under the trademark Luviskol ^® (BASF). Luviskol ^® VA 64 and Luviskol ^® VA 73, each vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers are also preferred nonionic polymers.

Cellulose ethers such as hydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose and hydroxypropylcellulose Methylhy- as they are for example sold under the trademark Culminal® ^® and Benecel ^® (AQUALON) and Natrosol ^® grades (Hercules). Starch and its derivatives, in particular starch ethers, for example Structure XL (National Starch), a multifunctional, salt-tolerant starch;

shellac

Polyvinylpyrrolidones, as sold for example under the name Luviskol ^® (BASF).

Siloxanes. These siloxanes can be both water-soluble and water-insoluble. Both volatile and nonvolatile siloxanes are suitable, nonvolatile siloxanes being understood as meaning those compounds whose boiling point is above 200 ^° C. under normal pressure. Preferred siloxanes are polydialkylsiloxanes, such as, for example, polydimethylsiloxane, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, such as, for example, polyphenylmethylsiloxane, ethoxylated polydialkylsiloxanes and polydialkylsiloxanes which contain amine and / or hydroxyl groups.

Glycosidically substituted silicones.

It is also possible according to the invention that the preparations used contain a plurality of, in particular two different polymers of the same charge and / or in each case an ionic and an amphoteric and / or nonionic polymer.

Depending on the other effects that are to be achieved in addition to the care performance with the inventive compositions, these may contain other ingredients. These are described below.

With particular preference the agents according to the invention contain one or more solvents besides water, alcohols are the most important solvents which may be present in the agents according to the invention. Preferred agents according to the invention are therefore characterized in that they additionally contain monohydric alcohol (s), preferably from the group consisting of ethanol, n-propanol, isopropanol, more preferably ethanol, preferably in amounts of from 1 to 50% by weight, particularly preferably from 2 to 45% by weight and in particular from 5 to 40% by weight, in each case based on the total agent.

Hair cleansing preparations (shampoos) may contain, for example, foaming anionic, zwitterionic, ampholytic and nonionic surfactants. Hair rinses and softeners preferably contain cationic surfactants and water-soluble polymers with quaternary ammonium groups to reduce static chargeability and improve combability. Permanent wave fixative preferably contain oxidizing agents such as. As potassium bromate or hydrogen peroxide. Hair dye shampoos contain direct hair dyes or oxidation dye precursors. Hair fixatives and hair dressings as well as other hairstyling preparations usually contain film-forming polymers which are soluble in aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic media, if appropriate together with cationic surfactants or cationic polymers. The use of surfactants (E) in the compositions according to the invention has proved to be particularly advantageous. In a further preferred embodiment, the agents according to the invention therefore contain surfactants. The term "surfactants" is understood as meaning surface-active substances which form adsorption layers on the upper and boundary surfaces or which can aggregate in volume phases to give micelle colloids or lyotropic mesophases. A distinction is made between anionic surfactants consisting of a hydrophobic radical and a negatively charged hydrophilic head group, amphoteric surfactants which carry both a negative and a compensating positive charge, cationic surfactants which, in addition to a hydrophobic radical, have a positively charged hydrophilic group, and nonionic surfactants which have no charges but strong dipole moments and are highly hydrated in aqueous solution.

Suitable anionic surfactants (E1) in preparations according to the invention are all anionic surfactants suitable for use on the human body. These are characterized by a water-solubilizing, anionic group such as. As a carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate or phosphate group and a lipophilic alkyl group having about 8 to 30 carbon atoms. In addition, glycol or polyglycol ether groups, ester, ether and amide groups and hydroxyl groups may be present in the molecule. Examples of suitable anionic surfactants are, in each case in the form of the sodium, potassium and ammonium as well as the mono-, di- and trialkanolammonium salts having 2 to 4 C atoms in the alkanol group, linear and branched fatty acids having 8 to 30 C atoms (Soap),

Ethercarbonsäuren the formula RO- (CH2-CH2θ) _χ -CH2-COOH, in which R is a linear

Alkyl group having 8 to 30 C atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 16,

Acylsarcosides having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group,

Acyltaurides having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group,

Acyl isethionates having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group,

Sulfobernsteinsäuremono- and -dialkylester having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and

Sulfosuccinic acid mono-alkylpolyoxyethylester having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and

1 to 6 oxyethyl groups, linear alkanesulfonates having 8 to 24 carbon atoms,

- linear alpha-olefin sulfonates having 8 to 24 carbon atoms,

Alpha-sulfofatty acid methyl esters of fatty acids having 8 to 30 C atoms,

Alkyl sulfates and alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates of the formula RO (CH ₂ -CH ₂ O) _x -OSO ₃ H, in which R is a preferably linear alkyl group having 8 to 30 carbon atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 12, sulfated hydroxyalkylpolyethylene and / or Hydroxyalkylenepropylene glycol ethers Sulfonates of unsaturated fatty acids having 8 to 24 carbon atoms and 1 to 6 double bonds Esters of tartaric acid and citric acid with alcohols, the addition products of about 2-15

Represent molecules of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide with fatty alcohols having 8 to 22 carbon atoms,

Alkyl and / or alkenyl ether phosphates of the formula (E1-I),

R ¹ (OCH ₂ CH ₂ ) _n -OP (O) (OX) -OR ² (EM)

in the R ^{1 is} preferably an aliphatic hydrocarbon radical having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R ^{2 is} hydrogen, a radical (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _n R ² or X, n is from 1 to 10 and X is hydrogen, an alkali metal radical or alkaline earth metal or NR ³ R ⁴ R ⁵ R ^6, where R to R independently of one another, are hydrogen or a C ₁ to C ₄ ³ ⁶ - hydrocarbon radical, sulfated Fettsäurealkylenglykolester of formula (E1-II) R ⁷ CO (Aiko) _n SO ₃ M (EI-II) in the R ⁷ CO- for a linear or branched, aliphatic, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22 C atoms, Alk for CH ₂ CH ₂ , CHCH ₃ CH ₂ and / or CH ₂ CHCH ₃ , n is from 0.5 to 5 and M is a cation, monoglyceride sulfates and monoglyceride ether sulfates of the formula (E1-III)

CH ₂ O (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _x -COR ⁸

I

CHO (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _x H (EMII)

I CH ₂ O (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _Z SO ₃ X

in which R ⁸ CO is a linear or branched acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, x, y and z are in total O or numbers from 1 to 30, preferably 2 to 10, and X is an alkali or alkaline earth metal. Typical examples of monoglyceride (ether) sulfates suitable for the purposes of the invention are the reaction products of lauric acid monoglyceride, coconut fatty acid monoglyceride, palmitic acid monoglyceride, stearic acid monoglyceride, oleic acid monoglyceride and tallow fatty acid monoglyceride and their ethylene oxide adducts with sulfur trioxide or chlorosulfonic acid in the form of their sodium salts. Preferably, monoglyceride sulfates of the formula (E1-III) are used in which R ⁸ CO is a linear acyl radical having 8 to 18 carbon atoms, amide-ether carboxylic acids,

Condensation products of C ₈ - C ₃₀ - fatty alcohols with protein hydrolysates and / or amino acids and their derivatives, which are known to the skilled person as protein fatty acid condensates, such as Lamepon ^® - types Gluadin ^® - types Hostapon ^® KCG or Amisoft ^® - types. Preferred anionic surfactants are alkyl sulfates, alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates and ether carboxylic acids having 10 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl group and up to 12 glycol ether groups in the molecule, sulfosuccinic acid mono- and dialkyl esters having 8 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic acid monoalkylpolyoxyethylester with 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups, Monoglycerdisulfate, alkyl and Alkenyletherphosphate and Eiweissfettsäurekondensate.

Zwitterionic surfactants (E2) are surface-active compounds which contain in the molecule at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one -COO ⁹ - or - SO ₃ bear ⁰ group. Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines, such as the N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example the cocoalkyldimethylammoniumglycinate, N-acylaminopropyl-N, N-dimethylammoniumglycinate, for example the cocoacylaminopropyldimethylammoniumglycinate, and 2-alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethyl imidazolines having in each case 8 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl or acyl group and the cocoacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinate. A preferred zwitterionic surfactant is the fatty acid amide derivative known by the INCI name Cocamidopropyl Betaine.

Ampholytic surfactants (E3) are understood as meaning those surface-active compounds which contain, in addition to a C ₈ -C ₂₄ -alkyl or -acyl group, at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH or -SO ₃ H group in the molecule and for forming internal Salts are capable. Examples of suitable ampholytic surfactants are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidoproylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids with each about 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group. Particularly preferred ampholytic surfactants are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethylaminopropionate and C ₁₂ -C ₁₈ acylsarcosine.

Nonionic surfactants (E4) contain as hydrophilic group e.g. a polyol group, one

Polyalkylene glycol ether group or a combination of polyol and Polyglykolethergruppe.

Such compounds are, for example

- Addition products of 2 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide to linear and branched fatty alcohols having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, to fatty acids having 8 to 30 carbon atoms and to alkylphenols having 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the Alkyl group, with a methyl or C ₂ - C ₆ - alkyl radical end-capped addition products of 2 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide to linear and branched fatty alcohols having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, to fatty acids having 8 to 30 C. -atoms and with alkylphenols having 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group, such as the type available under the commercial names Dehydol ^® LS, Dehydol ^® LT (Cognis), C ₁₂ -C ₃ o-fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of 1 to 30 mol ethylene oxide onto glycerol,

Addition products of 5 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil,

Polyol fatty acid esters, such as the commercial product Hydagen ^® HSP (Cognis) or

Sovermol types (Cognis), alkoxylated triglycerides, alkoxylated fatty acid alkyl esters of the formula (E4-I)

R ¹ CO- (OCH ₂ CHR ² ) _W OR ³ (E4-I)

in the R ¹ CO for a linear or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, R ^{2 is} hydrogen or methyl, R ^{3 is} linear or branched

Alkyl radicals having 1 to 4 carbon atoms and w is from 1 to 20,

Amine oxides,

hydroxy mixed,

Sorbitan fatty acid esters and adducts of ethylene oxide with sorbitan fatty acid esters such as the polysorbates,

Sugar fatty acid esters and addition products of ethylene oxide with sugar fatty acid esters,

Addition products of ethylene oxide to fatty acid alkanolamides and fatty amines,

Sugar surfactants of the alkyl and alkenyl oligoglycoside type of formula (E4-II),

in which R ^{4 is} an alkyl or alkenyl radical having 4 to 22 carbon atoms, G is a sugar radical having 5 or 6 carbon atoms and p is a number from 1 to 10. They can be obtained by the relevant methods of preparative organic chemistry. The alkyl and alkenyl oligoglycosides can be derived from aldoses or ketoses with 5 or 6 carbon atoms, preferably glucose. The preferred alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides are thus alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglucosides. The index number p in the general formula (E4-II) indicates the degree of oligomerization (DP), ie the distribution of mono- and oligoglycosides and stands for a number between 1 and 10. While p in the individual molecule must always be integer and here before For all given values p = 1 to 6, the value p for a given alkyloligoglycoside is an analytically determined arithmetic quantity, which usually represents a fractional number. Preference is given to using alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides having an average degree of oligomerization p of from 1.1 to 3.0. From an application point of view, those alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides whose degree of oligomerization is less than 1.7 and in particular between 1.2 and 1.4 are preferred. The alkyl or alkenyl radical R ⁴ can be derived from primary alcohols 4 to 11, preferably 8 to 10 carbon atoms derived. Typical examples are butanol, caproic alcohol, caprylic alcohol, capric alcohol and undecyl alcohol and technical mixtures thereof, as obtained, for example, in the hydrogenation of technical fatty acid methyl esters or in the hydrogenation of aldehydes from Roelen's oxo synthesis. Preference is given to alkyl oligoglucosides of the chain length C ₈ -C ₁₀ (DP = 1 to 3) which are obtained as a preliminary stream in the distillative separation of technical C ₈ -C ₁₈ coconut fatty alcohol and in a proportion of less than 6% by weight C ₁₂ - Alcohol may be contaminated as well as alkyl oligoglucosides based on technical C _9/11 oxo alcohols (DP = 1 to 3). The alkyl or alkenyl radical R ¹⁵ can also be derived from primary alcohols having 12 to 22, preferably 12 to 14 carbon atoms. Typical examples are lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, brassidyl alcohol, and technical mixtures thereof which can be obtained as described above. Alkyl oligoglucosides based on hydrogenated C _{2 /} i ₄ coconut alcohol with a DP of 1 to 3 are preferred.

Sugar surfactants of the fatty acid N-alkylpolyhydroxyalky! Amide type, a nonionic surfactant of the formula (E4-III),

R ⁵ CO-NR ⁶ - [Z] (E4-III)

R ^{5 is} CO for an aliphatic acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, R ^{6 is} hydrogen, an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical having 1 to 4 carbon atoms and [Z] is a linear or branched polyhydroxyalkyl radical having 3 to 12 carbon atoms and 3 to 10 hydroxyl groups stands. The fatty acid N-alkyl polyhydroxyalkylamides are known substances which are usually obtained by reductive amination of a reducing sugar with ammonia, an alkylamine or an alkanolamine and subsequent acylation with a fatty acid, a fatty acid alkyl ester or a fatty acid chloride. Preferably, the fatty acid N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamides are derived from reducing sugars having 5 or 6 carbon atoms, especially glucose. The preferred fatty acid N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamides are therefore fatty acid N-alkylglucamides as represented by the formula (E4-IV):

R ⁷ CO-NR ⁸ -CH ₂ - (CHOH) ₄ -CH ₂ OH (E4-IV)

The fatty acid N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamides used are preferably glucamides of the formula (E4-IV) in which R ^{8 is} hydrogen or an alkyl group and R ⁷ CO is the acyl radical of caproic acid, caprylic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitic acid, Stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, arachidic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid or erucic acid or of technical mixtures. Particular preference is given to fatty acid N-alkylglucamides of the formula (E4-IV) which are obtained by reductive amination of glucose with methylamine and subsequent acylation with lauric acid or C 12/14 coconut fatty acid or a corresponding derivative. Furthermore, the polyhydroxyalkylamides can also be derived from maltose and palatinose.

The preferred nonionic surfactants are the alkylene oxide addition products of saturated linear fatty alcohols and fatty acids with in each case 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide per mole of fatty alcohol or fatty acid. Preparations having excellent properties are also obtained if they contain fatty acid esters of ethoxylated glycerol as nonionic surfactants.

These connections are identified by the following parameters. The alkyl radical R contains 6 to 22 carbon atoms and may be both linear and branched. Preference is given to primary linear and methyl-branched in the 2-position aliphatic radicals. Such alkyl radicals are, for example, 1-octyl, 1-decyl, 1-lauryl, 1-myristyl, 1-cetyl and 1-stearyl. Particularly preferred are 1-octyl, 1-decyl, 1-lauryl, 1-myristyl. When using so-called "oxo-alcohols" as starting materials, compounds with an odd number of carbon atoms in the alkyl chain predominate.

Furthermore, very particularly preferred nonionic surfactants are the sugar surfactants. These may preferably be contained in the agents used according to the invention in amounts of 0.1 to 20% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.5-15% by weight are preferred, and most preferred are amounts of 0.5-7.5% by weight.

The compounds used as surfactant with alkyl groups may each be uniform substances. However, it is usually preferred to start from the production of these substances from native plant or animal raw materials, so as to obtain substance mixtures with different, depending on the particular raw material alkyl chain lengths.

In the case of the surfactants which are adducts of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide with fatty alcohols or derivatives of these addition products, both products with a "normal" homolog distribution and those with a narrow homolog distribution can be used. By "normal" homolog distribution are meant mixtures of homologs obtained in the reaction of fatty alcohol and alkylene oxide using alkali metals, alkali metal hydroxides or alkali metal alcoholates as catalysts. Narrowed homolog distributions are obtained when, for example, hydrotalcites, alkaline earth metal salts of ether carboxylic acids, alkaline earth metal oxides, -hy- hydroxides or alcoholates are used as catalysts. The use of products with narrow homolog distribution may be preferred.

The cationic surfactants which can be used according to the invention have already been described above as conditioners.

The surfactants (E) are used in amounts of 0.1-45% by weight, preferably 0.5-30% by weight and very particularly preferably 0.5-25% by weight, based on the total agent used according to the invention ,

Anionic, nonionic, zwitterionic and / or amphoteric surfactants and mixtures thereof may be preferred according to the invention.

In a further preferred embodiment, the agents according to the invention may contain emulsifiers (F). Emulsifiers effect at the phase interface the formation of water- or oil-stable adsorption layers, which protect the dispersed droplets against coalescence and thus stabilize the emulsion. Emulsifiers are therefore constructed like surfactants from a hydrophobic and a hydrophilic part of the molecule. Hydrophilic emulsifiers preferably form O / W emulsions and hydrophobic emulsifiers preferably form W / O emulsions. An emulsion is to be understood as meaning a droplet-like distribution (dispersion) of a liquid in another liquid under the expense of energy in order to create stabilizing phase interfaces by means of surfactants. The selection of these emulsifying surfactants or emulsifiers depends on the substances to be dispersed and the respective outer phase and the fineness of the emulsion. Emulsifiers which can be used according to the invention are, for example

Addition products of 4 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide to linear fatty alcohols having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, to fatty acids having 12 to 22 carbon atoms and to alkylphenols having 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group,

C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of from 1 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide onto polyols having from 3 to 6 carbon atoms, in particular to glycerol,

Ethylene oxide and polyglycerol addition products to methyl glucoside fatty acid esters, fatty acid alkanolamides and fatty acid glucamides,

C ₈ -C ₂₂ -alkylmono- and -oligoglycosides and their ethoxylated analogues, with on-gomerisierungsgrade of 1, 1 to 5, in particular 1, 2 to 2.0, and glucose are preferred as the sugar component,

- mixtures of alkyl (oligo) glucosides and fatty alcohols, for example, the commercially available product ^® Montanov 68,

Adducts of 5 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil, Partial esters of polyols having 3-6 carbon atoms with saturated fatty acids having 8 to 22 carbon atoms,

- sterols. Sterols are understood to mean a group of steroids which carry a hydroxyl group on C-atom 3 of the steroid skeleton and are isolated both from animal tissue (zoosterines) and from vegetable fats (phytosterols). Examples of zoosterols are cholesterol and lanosterol. Examples of suitable phytosterols are ergosterol, stigmasterol and sitosterol. Mushrooms and yeasts are also used to isolate sterols, the so-called mycosterols.

Phospholipids. Of these, especially the glucose phospholipids, e.g. as lecithins or phosphatidylcholines from e.g. Egg yolk or plant seeds (e.g., soybeans) are understood.

Fatty acid esters of sugars and sugar alcohols, such as sorbitol,

Polyglycerols and polyglycerol derivatives such as polyglycerol poly-12-hydroxystearate (commercial product Dehymuls ^® PGPH),

Linear and branched fatty acids with 8 to 30 C atoms and their Na, K, ammonium, Ca, Mg and Zn salts.

The agents according to the invention preferably contain the emulsifiers in amounts of 0.1-25% by weight, in particular 0.5-15% by weight, based on the total agent.

The compositions according to the invention may preferably contain at least one nonionic emulsifier having an HLB value of 8 to 18. Nonionic emulsifiers having an HLB value of 10 to 15 may be particularly preferred according to the invention.

Finally, the compositions according to the invention may also contain plant extracts (L).

Usually these extracts are produced by extraction of the whole plant. However, in individual cases it may also be preferred to prepare the extracts exclusively from flowers and / or leaves of the plant.

With regard to the plant extracts which can be used according to the invention, particular reference is made to the extracts listed in the table beginning on page 44 of the 3rd edition of the guideline for the ingredient declaration of cosmetic products, published by the Industrial Association for Personal Care and Detergent e.V. (IKW), Frankfurt.

The extracts of green tea, oak bark, stinging nettle, witch hazel, hops, henna, chamomile, burdock root, horsetail, hawthorn, lime blossom, almond, aloe vera, spruce needle, horse chestnut, sandalwood, juniper, coconut, mango, Apricot, lime, wheat, kiwi, melon, orange, grapefruit, sage, rosemary, birch, mallow, meadowfoam, quenelle, yarrow, thyme, lemon balm, toadstool, coltsfoot, marshmallow, meristem, ginseng and ginger root.

Particularly preferred are the extracts of green tea, oak bark, stinging nettle, witch hazel, hops, chamomile, burdock root, horsetail, lime blossom, almond, aloe vera, coconut, mango, apricot, lime, wheat, kiwi, melon, orange, grapefruit, sage, Rosemary, birch, meadowfoam, quenelle, yarrow, toadstool, meristem, ginseng and ginger root.

Especially suitable for the use according to the invention are the extracts of green tea, almond, aloe vera, coconut, mango, apricot, lime, wheat, kiwi and melon.

As extraction agent for the preparation of said plant extracts water, alcohols and mixtures thereof can be used. Among the alcohols are lower alcohols such as ethanol and isopropanol, but especially polyhydric alcohols such as ethylene glycol and propylene glycol, both as sole extractant and in admixture with water, are preferred. Plant extracts based on water / propylene glycol in a ratio of 1:10 to 10: 1 have proven to be particularly suitable.

The plant extracts can be used according to the invention both in pure and in diluted form. If they are used in diluted form, they usually contain about 2 to 80 wt .-% of active substance and as a solvent used in their extraction agent or extractant mixture.

Furthermore, it may be preferred to use in the compositions according to the invention mixtures of several, especially two, different plant extracts.

In addition, it may prove advantageous if the compositions according to the invention contain penetration aids and / or swelling agents (M). These include, for example, urea and urea derivatives, guanidine and its derivatives, arginine and its derivatives, water glass, imidazole and its derivatives, histidine and its derivatives, benzyl alcohol, glycerol, glycol and glycol ethers, propylene glycol and propylene glycol ethers, for example propylene glycol monoethyl ether, carbonates, bicarbonates, Diols and triols, and in particular 1, 2-diols and 1, 3-diols such as 1, 2-propanediol, 1, 2-pentanediol, 1, 2-hexanediol, 1, 2-dodecanediol, 1, 3-propanediol, 1 , 6-hexanediol, 1, 5-pentanediol, 1, 4-butanediol.

Advantageously in the context of the invention, short-chain carboxylic acids (N) may additionally support the active substance complex (A) from at least one apolar ingredient and at least one protein-complexed trace element from the group Zn, Mg, Cu, Mn, Si, K, Fe. Under Short-chain carboxylic acids and their derivatives in the context of the invention are understood to mean carboxylic acids which may be saturated or unsaturated and / or straight-chain or branched or cyclic and / or aromatic and / or heterocyclic and have a molecular weight of less than 750. For the purposes of the invention, preference may be given to saturated or unsaturated straight-chain or branched carboxylic acids having a chain length of from 1 to 16 C atoms in the chain, very particular preference being given to those having a chain length of from 1 to 12 C atoms in the chain.

The short-chain carboxylic acids according to the invention may have one, two, three or more carboxy groups. Preferred within the meaning of the invention are carboxylic acids having a plurality of carboxy groups, in particular di- and tricarboxylic acids. The carboxy groups may be wholly or partly present as esters, acid anhydride, lactone, amide, imidic acid, lactam, lactim, dicarboximide, carbohydrazide, hydrazone, hydroxam, hydroxime, amidine, amidoxime, nitrile, phosphonic or phosphate ester. The carboxylic acids according to the invention may of course be substituted along the carbon chain or the ring skeleton. The substituents of the carboxylic acids according to the invention are, for example, C 1 -C 8 -alkyl, C 2 -C 8 -alkenyl, aryl, aralkyl and aralkenyl, hydroxymethyl, C 2 -C 8 -hydroxyalkyl, C 2 -C 8 -hydroxyalkenyl, Aminomethyl, C 2 -C 8 -aminoalkyl, cyano, formyl, oxo, thioxo, hydroxy, mercapto, amino, carboxy or imino groups. Preferred substituents are C 1 -C 8 alkyl, hydroxymethyl, hydroxy, amino and carboxy groups. Particular preference is given to substituents in the D position. Very particularly preferred substituents are hydroxy, alkoxy and amino groups, where the amino function may optionally be further substituted by alkyl, aryl, aralkyl and / or alkenyl radicals. Furthermore, preferred carboxylic acid derivatives are the phosphonic and phosphate esters.

Examples of carboxylic acids according to the invention include formic acid, acetic acid, propionic acid, butyric acid, isobutyric acid, valeric acid, isovaleric acid, pivalic acid, oxalic acid, malonic acid, succinic acid, glutaric acid, glyceric acid, glyoxylic acid, adipic acid, pimelic acid, suberic acid, sebacic acid, propiolic acid, crotonic acid, isocrotonic acid , elaidic acid, maleic acid, fumaric acid, muconic acid, citraconic acid, mesaconic acid, camphoric acid, benzoic acid, o, m, p-phthalic acid, naphthoic acid, Toluoylsäure, hydratropic acid, atropic acid, cinnamic acid, isonicotinic acid, nicotinic acid, Bicarbaminsäure, 4,4 ^'-Dicyano-6, 6 ^'- binicotinsäure, 8-Carbamoyloctansäure, 1, 2,4-pentanetricarboxylic acid, 2-pyrrolecarboxylic acid, 1, 2,4,6,7-Napthalinpentaessigsäure, malonaldehydic, 4-hydroxy-phthalamic acid, 1-pyrazolecarboxylic acid, gallic acid or propanetricarboxylic acid, a Dicarboxylic acid selected from the group formed by verbin of the general formula (NI),

(N-I)

in the Z is a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl group having 4 to 12 carbon atoms, n is a number from 4 to 12 and one of the two groups X and Y is a COOH group and the other is hydrogen or a methyl or Ethyl radical, dicarboxylic acids of the general formula (NI), which additionally carry 1 to 3 methyl or ethyl substituents on the cyclohexene ring and dicarboxylic acids formed formally from the dicarboxylic acids according to formula (NI) by addition of a molecule of water to the double bond in the cyclohexene ring.

Dicarboxylic acids of the formula (N-I) are known in the literature.

The dicarboxylic acids of the formula (N-I) can be prepared, for example, by reacting polyunsaturated dicarboxylic acids with unsaturated monocarboxylic acids in the form of a Diels-Alder cyclization. Usually one will assume a polyunsaturated fatty acid as the dicarboxylic acid component. Preferred is the linoleic acid obtainable from natural fats and oils. As the monocarboxylic acid component, in particular, acrylic acid, but also e.g. Methacrylic acid and crotonic acid are preferred. Normally, in the case of reactions according to Diels-Alder, mixtures of isomers are formed in which one component is present in excess. These isomer mixtures can be used according to the invention as well as the pure compounds.

According to the invention, in addition to the preferred dicarboxylic acids of the formula (NI), those dicarboxylic acids which differ from the compounds of the formula (NI) by 1 to 3 methyl or ethyl substituents on the cyclohexyl ring or formally by addition of one molecule of water from these compounds be formed on the double formation of the cyclohexene ring.

The dicarboxylic acid (mixture), which is obtained by reacting linoleic acid with acrylic acid, has proved to be particularly effective according to the invention. It is a mixture of 5- and 6-carboxy-4-hexyl-2-cyclohexene-1-octanoic acid. Such compounds are commercially available under the designations Westvaco Diacid 1550 Westvaco Diacid ^® ^® 1595 (manufacturer: Westvaco). In addition to the short-chain carboxylic acids of the invention listed above by way of example, their physiologically tolerable salts can also be used according to the invention. Examples of such salts are the alkali metal salts, alkaline earth metal salts, zinc salts and ammonium salts, which in the context of the present application also include the mono-, di- and trimethyl-, -ethyl- and -hydroxyethyl ammonium salts. However, in the context of the invention, neutralized acids can very particularly preferably be used with alkaline-reacting amino acids, such as, for example, arginine, lysine, ornithine and histidine. Furthermore, it may be preferred for formulation reasons to select the carboxylic acid from the water-soluble representatives, in particular the water-soluble salts.

Furthermore, it is preferred according to the invention to use hydroxycarboxylic acids and here again in particular the dihydroxy-, trihydroxy- and polyhydroxycarboxylic acids as well as the dihydroxy, trihydroxy and polyhydroxy di-, tri- and polycarboxylic acids together with the active compound (A). It has been found that in addition to the hydroxycarboxylic acids, the hydroxycarboxylic acid esters and the mixtures of hydroxycarboxylic acids and their esters as well as polymeric hydroxycarboxylic acids and their esters can be very particularly preferred. Preferred hydroxycarboxylic acid esters are, for example, full esters of glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, tartaric acid or citric acid. Further basically suitable hydroxycarboxylic acid esters are esters of β-hydroxypropionic acid, tartronic acid, D-gluconic acid, sugar acid, mucic acid or glucuronic acid. Suitable alcohol components of these esters are primary, linear or branched aliphatic alcohols having 8-22 C atoms, ie, for example, fatty alcohols or synthetic fatty alcohols. The esters of C12-C15 fatty alcohols are particularly preferred. Esters of this type are commercially available, eg under the trademark Cosmacol® ^® EniChem, Augusta Industriale. Particularly preferred polyhydroxypolycarboxylic acids are polylactic acid and polyuric acid and their esters.

Furthermore, it has been found that the effect of the agents according to the invention can be increased if they contain hydroxycarboxylic acid esters. Preferred hydroxycarboxylic acid esters are full esters of glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, tartaric acid or citric acid. Further basically suitable hydroxycarboxylic esters are esters of β-hydroxypropionic acid, tartronic acid, D-gluconic acid, sugar acid, mucic acid or glucuronic acid. Suitable alcohol components of these esters are primary, linear or branched aliphatic alcohols having 8-22 C atoms, ie, for example, fatty alcohols or synthetic fatty alcohols. The esters of C ₁₂ -C ₁₅ fatty alcohols are particularly preferred. Esters of this type are commercially available, eg under the trademark Cosmacol® ^® EniChem, Augusta Industriale.

The amount of hydroxycarboxylic acid ester used is 0.1-15% by weight, based on the agent, preferably 0.1-10% by weight, and very particularly preferably 0.1-5% by weight. According to a further preferred embodiment, the agents according to the invention furthermore comprise at least one solid, in particular at least one fatty substance, in nanoparticulate form. Such a solid is, for example, hydrogenated castor oil. The size of the nanoparticles preferably lies at about 100 nm or below

The hair treatment compositions according to the invention may contain Sιlιkon (e) in amounts of 0.05 to 90% by weight, based in each case on the total agent usually contain only special products such as hair tip fluids high amounts of silicones, while other products such as shampoos, conditioners, hair treatments Depending on the nature of the agent according to the invention, therefore, the contents of silicones are quite different. If the compositions according to the invention are formulated as shampoos, particularly preferred hair treatment compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain silicones (e) in quantities from 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.25 to 5% by weight and in particular from 0.5 to 2.5% by weight, in each case based on the total composition

Particular preference is given to hair cleansing compositions according to the invention which contain at least one silicone which is selected from

(ι) polyalkylsiloxanes, polyarylsiloxanes, polyalkylarylsiloxanes which are volatile or nonvolatile, straight-chain, branched or cychsch, crosslinked or not crosslinked, (ιι) polysiloxanes which contain in their general structure one or more organofunctional groups which are selected from a) substituted or unsubstituted aminated groups, b) (per) fluorinated groups, c) thiol groups, d) carboxylate groups, e) hydroxy-herten groups, f) alkoxylated groups, g) acyloxyalkyl groups, h) amphoteric groups, ι) bisulfite groups, j) hydroxyacylamino groups, k ) Carboxy groups,

I) sulphonic acid groups, and m) sulphate or thiosulphate groups, (in) linear polysiloxane (A) polyoxyalkylene (B) block copolymers of the type (AB) _n where n>

3, (ιv) grafted Sihconpolymeren with non-silicone-containing, organic Grundgerust consisting of an organic main chain consisting of organic monomers is formed, which contain no silicone, was grafted into the chain and optionally at least one chain end of at least one Polysiloxanmakromer;

(v) grafted polysiloxane backbone silicone polymers having grafted thereto non-silicone organic monomers having a polysiloxane backbone to which at least one organic macromer not containing silicone has been grafted in the chain and optionally at least at one of its ends;

(vi) or mixtures thereof.

Particularly preferred hair treatment compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they additionally contain at least one silicone of the formula I.

(CH ₃ ) ₃ Si [O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₂ ] _x -O-Si (CH ₃ ) 3 (I),

in which x is a number from 0 to 100, preferably from 0 to 50, more preferably from 0 to 20 and in particular 0 to 10.

The hair treatment agents preferred according to the invention comprise a silicone of the above formula I. These silicones are designated according to the INCI nomenclature as DIMETHICONE. In the context of the present invention, as the silicone of the formula I, the compounds are preferably:

(CH ₃ ) ₃ Si-O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si-O-Si (CH ₃ ) 3

(CH ₃ ) ₃ Si [O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si] ₂ -O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃

(CH ₃ ) ₃ Si [O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si] ₃ -O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃

(CH ₃ ) ₃ Si [O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si] ₄ -O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃

(CH ₃ ) ₃ Si [O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si] ₅ -O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃

(CH ₃ ) ₃ Si [O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si] ₆ -O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃

(CH ₃ ) ₃ Si [O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si] ₇ -O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃

(CH ₃ ) ₃ Si [O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si] ₈ -O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃

(CH ₃ ) ₃ Si [O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si] ₉ -O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃

(CH ₃ ) ₃ Si [O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si] ₁₀ -O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃

(CH ₃ ) ₃ Si - [O- (CH ₃ ) 2 Si] i ₁ -O-Si (CH ₃ ) 3

(CH ₃ ) ₃ Si [O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si] ₁₂ -O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃

(CH ₃ ) ₃ Si [O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si] ₁₃ -O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃

(CH ₃ ) ₃ Si [O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si] ₁₄ -O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃

(CH ₃ ) ₃ Si [O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si] ₁₅ -O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃

(CH ₃ ) ₃ Si [O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si] ₁₆ -O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃ (CH ₃ ) ₃ Si [O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si] ₁₇ -O-Si (CH ₃ ) 3 (CH ₃ ) ₃ Si [O- (CH ₃ ) 2 Si] ₁₈ -O-Si (CH ₃ ) 3 (CH ₃ ) ₃ Si- [O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si] ₁₉ -O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃ (CH ₃ ) ₃ Si [0- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si] 2o-O-Si (CH ₃ ) 3

where (CH ₃ ) ₃ Si-O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃ , (CH ₃ ) ₃ Si-O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si-O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃ and / or (CH ₃ ) ₃ Si [O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si] ₂ -O-Si (CH ₃ ) _{3 are} particularly preferred.

Of course, mixtures of o.g. Silicones may be included in the compositions of the invention.

Preferred silicones can be used according to the invention have viscosities at 20 ° C of 0.2 to 2 mmV ^1, wherein silicones are particularly preferred with Viskosiäten of 0.5 to 1 mmV. ¹

Particularly preferred agents according to the invention contain one or more amino-functional silicones. Such silicones may e.g. through the formula

M (R _a Q _b SiO ₍₄ _a -. _{B) / 2)} χ (. R _c SiO ₍₄ _{c) / 2)} y M

Will be described, wherein in the above formula R is a hydrocarbon or a hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to about 6 carbon atoms, Q is a polar radical of the general formula -R ¹ HZ, wherein R ^{1 is} a divalent connecting group attached to hydrogen and the Z is an organic, amino-functional radical containing at least one amino-functional group, carbon and hydrogen atoms, carbon, hydrogen and oxygen atoms or carbon, hydrogen and nitrogen atoms; "a" assumes values in the range of about 0 to about 2, "b" assumes values in the range of about 1 to about 3, "a" + "b" is less than or equal to 3, and "c" is a number in the range from about 1 to about 3, and x is a number ranging from 1 to about 2,000, preferably from about 3 to about 50, and most preferably from about 3 to about 25, and y is a number ranging from about 20 to about 10,000 , preferably from about 125 to about 10,000, and most preferably from about 150 to about 1,000, and M is a suitable silicone end group as known in the art, preferably trimethylsiloxy. Non-limiting examples of the groups represented by R include alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, amyl, isoamyl, hexyl, isohexyl and the like; Alkenyl radicals such as vinyl, halovinyl, alkylvinyl, allyl, haloallyl, alkylallyl; Cycloalkyl radicals such as cyclobutyl, cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl and the like; Phenyl radicals, benzyl radicals, halohydrocarbon radicals such as 3-chloropropyl, 4-bromobutyl, 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl, chlorocyclohexyl, bromophenyl, chlorophenyl and the like, and sulfur containing radicals such as mercaptoethyl, mercaptopropyl, mercaptohexyl, mercaptophenyl and the like; Preferably R is an alkyl radical containing from 1 to about 6 carbon atoms, and am most preferably R is methyl. Examples of R ¹ include methylene, ethylene, propylene, hexamethylene, decamethylene, -CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ -, phenylene, naphthylene, -CH ₂ CH ₂ SCH ₂ CH ₂ -, - CH ₂ CH ₂ OCH ₂ - , -OCH ₂ CH ₂ -, -OCH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ -, -CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) C (O) OCH ₂ -, - (CH ₂ ) ₃ CC (O) OCH ₂ CH ₂ -, C ₆ H ₄ C ₆ H ₄ -, -C ₆ H ₄ CH ₂ C ₆ H ₄ -; and - (CH ₂ ) ₃ C (O) SCH ₂ CH ₂ -.

Z is an organic, amino-functional radical containing at least one functional amino group. A possible formula for Z is NH (CH ₂ ) _Z NH ₂ , wherein z is 1 or more. Another possible formula for Z is -NH (CH ₂ ) _Z (CH ₂ ) NH, wherein both z and zz are independently 1 or more, this structure comprising diamino ring structures, such as piperazinyl, Z is most preferably an -NHCH . ₂ CH ₂ NH ₂ radical another possible formula for Z is - N (CH ₂₎ _Z (CH ₂₎ _Z2 NX ₂ or -NX ₂ wherein each X of X ₂ is independently selected from the group consisting of hydrogen and Alkyl groups having 1 to 12 carbon atoms, and zz is O.

Q is most preferably a polar, amine functional group of the formula -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ NHCH ₂ CH ₂ NH ₂ . In the formulas, "a" assumes values in the range of about 0 to about 2, "b" assumes values in the range of about 2 to about 3, "a" + "b" is less than or equal to 3, and "c "is a number in the range of about 1 to about 3. The molar ratio of the R _a Q _b SiO _(4. _a - _{b) / 2} units to the R _c Si0 _(4. _{c) / 2} units is in the range from about 1: 2 to 1:65, preferably from about 1: 5 to about 1:65, and most preferably from about 1:15 to about 1:20. When one or more silicones of the above formula are used, then the various variables can be used Substituents in the above formula may be different for the various silicone components present in the silicone blend.

Preferred hair treatment compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they are an amino-functional silicone of the formula II

R _'a G ₃ .a-Si (OSiG ₂₎ _n - (OSiG _b R'. ₂ _b) _m -O-SiG _3. _a -R ¹ _a (H),

contain, in which means:

G is -H, a phenyl group, -OH, -O-CH ₃ , -CH ₃ , -O-CH ₂ CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₃ , -O-

CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₃₁ -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₃ , -O-CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ , -CH (CH _S ) ₂ , -O-CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₃ , - CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₃ , -O-CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ , -CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ , -O-CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ CH ₃ , - CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ CH ₃ , -OC (CH ₃ ) _3l -C (CH ₃ J ₃ ;

a is a number between O and 3, in particular O;

b is a number between 0 and 1, in particular 1,

m and n are numbers whose sum (m + n) is between 1 and 2,000, preferably between 50 and 150, where n is preferably from 0 to 1999 and especially from 49 to 149 and m is preferably from 1 to 2000, in particular from 1 to 10, R 'is a monovalent radical selected from O -QN (R ") - CH ₂ -CH ₂ -N (R") ₂ O -QN (R ") ₂ O -QN ⁺ (R ¹¹ J ₃ A ^" o - QN ⁺ H (R ") ₂ A ^" o -QN ⁺ H ₂ (R ") A ^' o -QN (R ¹¹ J-CH ₂ -CH ₂ -N ⁺ R ¹¹ H ₂ A ^" where each Q is a chemical bond, -CH ₂ -, -CH ₂ -CH ₂ -, -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ -, -C (CH ₃ ) ₂ -, - CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ -, -CH ₂ C ( CHj) ₂ -, -CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ CH ₂ -,

R "is identical or different radicals from the group -H, -phenyl, -benzyl, -CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) Ph, the d.zo-alkyl radicals, preferably -CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH _3, -CH (CH ₃ J _2, -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ H _3, - CH ₂ CH (CH ₃₎ _2, -CH (CH ₃₎ CH ₂ CH _3, -C (CH ₃ J ₃ , and A represents an anion, which is preferably selected from chloride, bromide, iodide or methosulfate.

Particularly preferred hair treatment compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one amino-functional silicone of the formula (IIa)

(CH ₃ ) ₃ Si [O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₂ ] "[OSi (CH ₃ )] _m -OSi (CH ₃ ) 3 (IIa),

I CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ NH (CH ₂ ) ₂ NH ₂

in which m and n are numbers whose sum (m + n) is between 1 and 2000, preferably between 50 and 150, where n preferably values of 0 to 1999 and in particular of 49 to 149 and m preferably values of 1 to 2000 , in particular from 1 to 10 assumes.

These silicones are referred to as trimethylsilylamodimethicones according to the INCI declaration.

Hair-cleansing compositions according to the invention which contain at least one amino-functional silicone of the formula (IIb) are also particularly preferred.

R- [Si (CH ₃ ) ₂ -O] _n ₁ [Si (R) -O] _m - [Si (CH ₃ ) ₂ ] _n ₂ -R (IIb),

I

(CH ₂ ) ₃ NH (CH ₂ ) ₂ NH ₂

in which R is -OH, -O-CH ₃ or a -CH ₃ group and m, n1 and n2 are numbers whose sum (m + n1 + n2) is between 1 and 2,000, preferably between 50 and 150 , where the sum (n1 + n2) preferably assumes values from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m preferably values from 1 to 2000, in particular from 1 to 10. These silicones are referred to as amodimethicones according to the INCI declaration.

Regardless of which amino-functional silicones are used, preference is given to hair-treatment compositions according to the invention which contain an amino-functional silicone whose amine number is above 0.25 meq / g, preferably above 0.3 meq / g and in particular above 0.4 meq / g , The amine number stands for the milliequivalents of amine per gram of amino-functional silicone. It can be determined by titration and also expressed in mg KOH / g.

Hair treatment compositions which are preferred according to the invention are characterized in that, based on their weight, they contain 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 8% by weight, particularly preferably 0.25 to 7.5% by weight and in particular 0, 5 to 5 wt.% Amino-functional silicone (s) included.

The INCI CYCLOMETHICONE designated cyclic dimethicones are inventively used with preference. Here, hair treatment compositions according to the invention are preferred which contain at least one silicone of the formula III

in which x is a number from 0 to 200, preferably from 0 to 10, more preferably from 0 to 7 and in particular 0, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 or 6 stands.

The silicones described above have a backbone composed of -Si-O-Si units. Of course, these Si-O-Si units may also be interrupted by carbon chains. Appropriate molecules are accessible by chain extension reactions and are preferably used in the form of silicone-in-water emulsions.

The silicone-in-water emulsions which can be used according to the invention can be prepared by known processes, as disclosed, for example, in US Pat. No. 5,998,537 and EP 0 874 017 A1.

In summary, this preparation process comprises the emulsifying mixture of components, one of which contains at least one polysiloxane, the other of which contains at least one organosilicone material which reacts with the polysiloxane in a chain extension reaction, wherein at least one metal ion-containing catalyst for the chain extension reaction, at least one surfactant and water are present. Chain extension reactions with polysiloxanes are known and may include, for example, the hydrosilylation reaction in which an Si-H group having an aliphatically unsaturated group in the presence of a platinum / rhodium catalyst to form polysiloxanes having some Si (C) _P- Si bonds (p = 1-6), the polysiloxanes also being referred to as polysiloxanes-polysilalkylenes copolyesters.

The chain extension reaction may also include the reaction of an Si-OH group (e.g., a hydroxy-terminated polysiloxane) with an alkoxy group (e.g., alkoxysilanes, silicates, or alkoxysiloxanes) in the presence of a metal-containing catalyst to form polysiloxanes.

The polysiloxanes used in the chain extension reaction include a ss-linear polymer of the following structure:

R-Si (R ₂ MO-Si (R ₂ H _n -O-SiR ₃

In this structure, each R is independently a hydrocarbon radical having up to 20 Kohlenstaoffatomen, preferably having 1 to 6 C-atoms, such as an alkyl group (for example, methyl, ethyl, propyl or butyl), an aryl group (for example, phenyl), or group required for the ketene extension reaction ("reactive group", for example Si-bonded H atoms, aliphatically unsaturated groups such as vinyl, allyl or hexenyl, hydroxy, alkoxy, such as methoxy, ethoxy or propoxy, alkoxy-alkoxy, acetoxy, amino, etc.), with the proviso that on average one to two reactive groups are present per polymer, n is a positive number> 1. Preferably, a plurality of the reactive groups, more preferably> 90%, and especially> 98% of the reactive groups, on the terminal Si -Atomen bound in siloxane. Preferably, n is numbers describing polysiloxanes having viscosities between 1 and 1,000,000 mm ² / s, more preferably viscosities between 1,000 and 100,000 mm ² / s.

The polysiloxanes may be branched to a low degree (for example, <2 mol% of the siloxane units), but the polymers are substantially linear, more preferably completely linear. In addition, the substituents R may in their turn be substituted, for example with N-containing groups (for example amino groups), epoxy groups, S-containing groups, Si-containing groups, O-containing groups, etc. Preferably, at least 80% of the radicals R are alkyl radicals, especially preferably methyl groups.

The organosilicone material that reacts with the polysiloxane in the chain extension reaction may be either a second polysiloxane or a molecule that acts as a ketene extender. When the organosilicone material is a polysiloxane, it has the above-mentioned general structure. In these cases, a polysiloxane in the reaction has (at least) one reactive one Group, and a second polysiloxane has (at least) a second reactive group which reacts with the first.

If the organosilicone material comprises a chain extending agent, it may be a material such as a silane, a siloxane (e.g. disiloxane or trisiloxane) or a silazane. For example, a composition comprising a polysiloxane according to the above-described general structure having at least one Si-OH group can be chain extended by reacting with an alkoxysilane (for example, a dialkoxysilane or trialkoxysilane) in the presence of tin or titanium-containing catalysts is reacted.

The metal-containing catalysts in the chain extension reaction are usually specific for a particular reaction. Such catalysts are known in the art and include, for example, metals such as platinum, rhodium, tin, titanium, copper, lead, etc. In a preferred chain extension reaction, a polysiloxane having at least one aliphatically unsaturated group, preferably an end group, is reacted with an organosilicone material Presence of a hydrosysylation catalyst which is a siloxane or polysiloxane having at least one (preferably terminal) Si-H group. The polysiloxane has at least one aliphatically unsaturated group and satisfies the general formula given above in which R and n are as defined by preference, wherein on average between 1 and 2 groups R have one aliphatically unsaturated group per polymer. Representative aliphatic unsaturated groups are, for example, vinyl, allyl, hexenyl and cyclohexenyl or a group R ² CH = CHR ³ in which R ^{2 is} a divalent aliphatic silicon-bonded chain and R ^{3 is} a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group. The organosilicone material having at least one Si-H group preferably has the above-mentioned structure, wherein R and n are as defined above and wherein, on average, between 1 and 2 groups R is hydrogen and n is 0 or a positive integer

This material may be a polymer or a low molecular weight material such as a siloxane (for example, a disiloxane or a trisiloxane).

The polysiloxane having at least one aliphatic unsaturated group and the organosilicone material having at least one Si-H group react in the presence of a hydrosilylation catalyst. Such catalysts are known in the art and include, for example, platinum and rhodium-containing materials. The catalysts may take any known form, for example platinum or rhodium coated on support materials (such as silica gel or activated carbon) or other suitable compounds such as platinum chloride, salts of platinum or chloroplatinic acids. A preferred catalyst because of its good dispersibility in organosilicone systems and the low color change is chloroplatinic acid either as a commercially available hexahydrate or in anhydrous form. In a further preferred chain extension reaction, a polysiloxane having at least one Si-OH group, preferably an end group, is reacted with an organosilicon material having at least one alkoxy group, preferably a siloxane having at least one Si-OR group or an alkoxysilane having at least two alkoxy groups Here, a catalyst containing mtallhaltist is used as the catalyst again

For the reaction of an Si-OH group with an Si-OR group, there are many known catalysts, for example organometallic compounds such as organotin salts, titanates or titanium chelates or complex examples. Examples include tin octoate, dibutylmine dilaurate, dibutyltin diacetate, dimethyltmine dineodecanoate, dibutyltin dimethoxide, isobutyltin-terceroate, dimethyltin-dibutyrate, dimethyltin-dineodecanoate, triethyltin tartrate, tin oleate, tin naphthenate, tin butyrate, tin acetate, tin benzoate, tin sebacate, tin succinate, tetrabutyl titanate, tetraisopropyltitante, tetraphenyltitant, tetraoctadecyl titanate, titanium naphthanate, ethyltinethanolamine titanate, titanium dioxide. dnsopropyl diethyl acetoacetate, titanium dansopropoxy diacetyl acetonate and titanium tetra alkoxides in which the alkoxide is butoxy or propoxy

The Sιlιkon-ιn-Emulsιonen moreover preferably contain at least one surfactant These have been described above in detail

Hair treatment compositions which are likewise preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one silicone of the formula IV

R _{3 is} -Si- [O-SiR ₂ ] _x - (CH ₂ ) n - [O-SiR ₂ ] _y -O-SiR ₃ (IV),

in which R is identical or different radicals from the group -H, -phenyl, -benzyl, -CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) Ph, the d. _Σ o-alkyl radicals, preferably -CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₃ , -CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ , -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ H ₃ , -CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ , -CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ CH ₃ , -C (CH ₃ ) ₃ , x or y is a number from 0 to 200, preferably from 0 to 10, more preferably from 0 to 7 and in particular 0, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 or 6, and n is a number from 0 to 10, preferably from 1 to 8 and especially for 2, 3, 4, 5, 6

The silicones are preferably water-soluble. Hair-treatment agents preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one water-soluble silicone

Another preferred group of ingredients of the hair treatment compositions of the invention are vitamins, provitamins or vitamin precursors. These are described below

The group of substances referred to as vitamin A include retinol (vitamin A ₁ ) and 3,4-Dydehydroretιnol (vitamin A ₂ ) The ß-carotene is the provitamin of retinol as a vitamin According to the invention, for example, vitamin A acid and its esters, vitamin A aldehyde and vitamin A alcohol, as well as its esters, such as palmitate and acetate, come into consideration. The agents according to the invention preferably contain the vitamin A component in amounts of 0.05-1% by weight, based on the total preparation.

The vitamin B group or the vitamin B complex include u. a.

- Vitamin B ₁ (thiamine) Vitamin B ₂ (riboflavin)

Vitamin B ₃ . Under this name, the compounds nicotinic acid and nicotinamide (niacinamide) are often performed. Preferred according to the invention is the nicotinic acid amide, which is preferably contained in the agents used according to the invention in amounts of from 0.05 to 1% by weight, based on the total agent.

- Vitamin B ₅ (pantothenic acid, panthenol and pantolactone). Panthenol and / or pantolactone are preferably used in the context of this group. Derivatives of panthenol which can be used according to the invention are, in particular, the esters and ethers of panthenol and also cationically derivatized panthenols. Individual representatives are, for example, the panthenol triacetate, the panthenol monoethyl ether and its monoacetate and also the cationic panthenol derivatives disclosed in WO 92/13829. The said compounds of the vitamin B ₅ type are preferably contained in the agents according to the invention in amounts of 0.05-10% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.1-5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.

Vitamin B ₆ (pyridoxine and pyridoxamine and pyridoxal).

Vitamin C (ascorbic acid). Vitamin C is used in the agents according to the invention preferably in amounts of 0.1 to 3 wt .-%, based on the total agent. Use in the form of palmitic acid ester, glucosides or phosphates may be preferred. The use in combination with tocopherols may also be preferred.

Vitamin E (tocopherols, especially α-tocopherol). Tocopherol and its derivatives, which include in particular the esters such as the acetate, the nicotinate, the phosphate and the succinate, are preferably present in the agents according to the invention in amounts of 0.05-1% by weight, based on the total agent.

Vitamin F. The term "vitamin F" is usually understood as meaning essential fatty acids, in particular linoleic acid, linolenic acid and arachidonic acid.

Vitamin H. The vitamin H is the compound (3aS, 4S, 6aR) -2-oxohexahydrothienol [3,4-d] imidazole-4-valeric acid, for. but now the trivial name Biotin enforced. Biotin is preferably present in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.0001 to 1.0% by weight, in particular in amounts of from 0.001 to 0.01% by weight.

In summary, hair treatment compositions according to the invention are preferred which contain vitamins, pro-vitamins and vitamin precursors, which are assigned to the groups A, B, C, E, F and H, preferred compositions containing said compounds in amounts of from 0.1 to 5% by weight. , preferably from 0.25 to 4 wt .-% and in particular from 0.5 to 2.5 wt .-%, each based on the total agent.

Agents which are particularly preferred according to the invention are further characterized in that they additionally comprise gel formers, preferably from the group consisting of cellulose and / or cellulose derivatives, in particular hydropoxyethylcellulose and / or the polyacrylates, and also poly (meth) acrylates, preferably in amounts of from 0.1 to 5% by weight. -%, particularly preferably from 0.5 to 2.5 wt .-%, each based on the total agent included.

Another object of the present invention is the use of benzophenone derivatives of the formula (I)

in the

X and Y are independently selected from substituted or unsubstituted C ₁ -C ₂₂ -alkyl radicals, substituted or unsubstituted C ₂ -C ₁₂ -alkenyl radicals, substituted or unsubstituted C ₂ -C ₁₂ -alkynyl radicals, substituted or unsubstituted aryl radicals, substituted or unsubstituted C _r C ₁₂ -Arylalkylresten, quaternary ammonium radicals, Fungizidresrten, residues with organometallic complex centers, in hair treatment agents.

Prevented uses according to the invention serve to improve at least one of

properties

- Extension of care effects on keratinic fibers, especially human

hair;

Reduction of exposure times to keratinic fibers, in particular human hair;

Combability of keratinic fibers, in particular human hair.

With regard to further preferred embodiments of uses according to the invention, what has been said about the agents according to the invention applies mutatis mutandis.

Claims

claims

1. A process for the treatment of keratinic fibers, in particular human hair, characterized in that a hair treatment agent applied to the hair and the treated hair is irradiated for 1 to 60 minutes after the application of the agent with UV radiation in the wavelength range 200 to 600 nm ,

2. The method according to claim 1, characterized in that the treated hair following the application of the agent 1 to 60 minutes, preferably 2 to 50 minutes, more preferably 5 to 40 minutes and especially 10 to 30 minutes long with a UV radiation UV-A (400-320 nm) and / or UV-B (320-280 nm) and / or UV-C (280-200 nm) is irradiated.

3. The method according to any one of claims 1 or 2, characterized in that the hair treatment agent is rinsed out of the hair after irradiation.

4. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the hair treatment agent - based on its weight - 0.01 to 10 wt .-%, preferably 0.025 to 5 wt .-%, more preferably 0.05 to 2, 5 wt .-% and in particular 0.1 to 1 wt .-% photopolymerizable substance (s).

5. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the hair treatment agent contains at least one carbonyl compound of the formula XC (O) -Y, in which X and Y are independently selected from substituted or unsubstituted C 1 -C ₂₂ -alkyl radicals, substituted or substituted unsubstituted C ₂ -C ₁₂ -alkenyl radicals, substituted or unsubstituted C ₂ -C ₁₂ -alkynyl radicals, substituted or unsubstituted aryl radicals, substituted or unsubstituted C ₁ -C -arylalkyl radicals, quaternary ammonium radicals, fungicidene radicals, radicals having organometallic complex centers.

6. The method according to claim 1 to 5, characterized in that the hair treatment agent at least one benzophenone derivative of the formula (I)

contains, in the X and Y are independently selected from substituted or unsubstituted C ₁ -C ₂₂ -alkyl radicals, substituted or unsubstituted C ₂ -C ₁₂ -alkenyl radicals, substituted or unsubstituted C ₂ -C ₁₂ -alkynyl radicals, substituted or unsubstituted aryl radicals, substituted or unsubstituted radicals; Ci ₂ -Arylalkylresten, quaternary ammonium radicals, Fungizidresrten, residues with organometallic complex centers.

7. hot air device, in particular a hair dryer, comprising an electric heater and a fan for generating a hot air flow, characterized in that in the hot air device at least one UV radiation source is integrated.

8. Warm air device according to claim 6, characterized in that the radiation direction of the UV radiation source (s) substantially coincides with the direction of the hot air flow.

9. Hot air device according to one of claims 6 or 7, characterized in that the radiation power of the UV radiation source (s) 0.1 to 1000 mW, preferably 0.25 to 750 mW, more preferably 0.5 to 500 mW and in particular 0 , 1 to 100 mW.

10. Hot air device according to one of claims 6 to 8, characterized in that the average irradiance of the UV radiation source (s), measured in 20 mm distance, 0.1 to 100 mW / cm ² , preferably 0.25 to 75 mW / cm ² , more preferably 0.5 to 50 mW / cm ² and in particular 0.1 to 100 mW / cm ² .

11. A hot air device according to any one of claims 6 to 9, characterized in that it comprises as UV radiation source one or more UV diodes, preferred UV diodes are selected from

UV LED of wavelength 370-375 nm, preferably with a power of 1 mW, UV LED of wavelength 380-385 nm, preferably with a power of 3 mW, UV LED of wavelength 390-395 nm, preferably with a power of 5 mW, 400 nm UV LED, preferably with a power of 5 mW.

12. Warm air device according to one of claims 6 to 10, characterized in that it comprises a plurality of heating and blowing stages to vary the strength of the fan air flow and / or the heating power.

13. Warm air device according to one of claims 6 to 11, characterized in that it is designed as a drying hood.

14. Warm air device according to one of claims 6 to 11, characterized in that it is designed as a hand-held hair dryer.

15. Agents for the treatment of keratinic fibers, in particular of human hair, containing - based on its weight - 0.01 to 10 wt .-%, preferably 0.025 to 5% by weight, more preferably 0.05 to 2.5 wt. % and in particular 0.1 to 1% by weight of at least one benzophenone derivative of the formula (I)

in the

X and Y are independently selected from substituted or unsubstituted C ₁ -C ₂₂ -alkyl radicals, substituted or unsubstituted C ₂ -C ₁₂ -alkenyl radicals, substituted or unsubstituted C ₂ -C ₁₂ -alkynyl radicals, substituted or unsubstituted aryl radicals, substituted or unsubstituted CVC 1 -Arylalkylresten, quaternary ammonium radicals, Fungizidresrten, residues with organometallic complex centers.

16. Composition according to claim 15, characterized in that in addition it contains vitamins, pro-vitamins and vitamin precursors, which are assigned to the groups A, B, C, E, F and H, preferred compositions of said compounds in amounts of 0 , 1 to 5 wt .-%, preferably from 0.25 to 4 wt .-% and in particular from 0.5 to 2.5 wt .-%, each based on the total agent included.

17. Composition according to one of claims 15 or 16, characterized in that it additionally monohydric (s) alcohol (s), preferably from the group ethanol, n-propanol, iso-propanol, more preferably ethanol, preferably in amounts of 1 to 50 wt .-%, particularly preferably from 2 to 45 wt .-% and in particular from 5 to 40 wt .-%, each based on the total agent contains.

18. Composition according to one of claims 15 to 17, characterized in that it additionally gelling agent, preferably from the group of cellulose and / or cellulose derivatives, in particular hydropoxyethylcellulose and / or the polyacrylates and poly (meth) acrylates, preferably in amounts of 0, 1 to 5 wt .-%, particularly preferably from 0.5 to 2.5 wt .-%, each based on the total agent contains.

19. Use of benzophenone derivatives of the formula (I)

in the

X and Y are independently selected from substituted or unsubstituted C ₁ -C ₂₂ -alkyl radicals, substituted or unsubstituted C ₂ -C ₁₂ -alkenyl radicals, substituted or unsubstituted C ₂ -C ₁₂ -alkynyl radicals, substituted or unsubstituted aryl radicals, substituted or unsubstituted C ₁ -C 4 -arylalkyl radicals , quaternary ammonium radicals, fungicide residues, residues with organometallic complex centers, in hair treatment agents.

20. Use according to claim 19 for improving at least one of the properties

Prolonging care effects on keratinic fibers, especially human hair;

Reduction of exposure times to keratinic fibers, especially human

hair;

Combability of keratinic fibers, in particular human hair.